1992 lx making terrible noise after tune up PLEASE HELP!!
#23
If you take a 2 or 3 foot piece of garden hose, or a gift wrap tube and put it in your ear, you should be able to locate the source of an exhaust leak. You can sometimes put a feather or something real light near the exhaust leak and see it move. This is a little harder if you radiator fan is running.
If you have a large screwdriver or wood dowel, you can put one end on the valve cover and the other in your ear and tell if it's mechanical...something from inside the engine.
I also recommend saving your old spark plugs and marking where they came from, the plugs will tell you a lot about your engine.
If you have a large screwdriver or wood dowel, you can put one end on the valve cover and the other in your ear and tell if it's mechanical...something from inside the engine.
I also recommend saving your old spark plugs and marking where they came from, the plugs will tell you a lot about your engine.
#24
Reason it started after the tune up is because it wasn't firing on the #6 cylinder. Be it due to a fouled plug or bad wire. Now its firing so its forcing heated exhaust gas out. That's why it quits when you pull the plug wire off .
#25
You can buy header gaskets from americanmuscle.com/latemodelrestoration.com/jegs.com for 11.99-13.99 for the ford racing or bbk gaskets. Have faith in yourself! You can do it! Avoid the shop like the plaque because NOBODY will treat your car like you do. All you do is take off the bolts, bull the headers back a little, as an added caution put some tape on the headers/ head holes to avoid getting crap in them, clean off the old gasket (razor blade works), put the new gasket on, put the bolts back on (I suggest changing them for ARP bolts so you wont break any in the heads), and tighten the bolts. Put the bolts on snug, but don't "Hulk" on them. You don't want to break a bolt in the heads if you can avoid it. Then each time after your first 3-5 heat cycles, once the car is cooled down, recheck the bolts to make sure they have not loosened up. It is perfectly normal if they do. Heat does that. It took my car 4 heat cycles to stop coming loose. Worst case you can rule out the gasket for just 12 bucks... worth it. ARP bolts are NEVER a waste of money.
Last edited by yurizx6r; 06-13-2014 at 07:43 AM.
#26
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/400-1102/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford+Racing/39...-B302/10002/-1
Done. Now I have not used a fordracing header gasket yet, but I'm sure it will do the job. I've used felpro and have had good luck with those, but I'm sure it's the same quality. We have all had to start somewhere man.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford+Racing/39...-B302/10002/-1
Done. Now I have not used a fordracing header gasket yet, but I'm sure it will do the job. I've used felpro and have had good luck with those, but I'm sure it's the same quality. We have all had to start somewhere man.
#27
You guys were right! Changed out the header gasket and now the car sounds and runs amazing. I could feel the air leaking out with my hands when I checked it. There is a little bit of a leak on the other header gasket too. Guess I will change that one out too this weekend since I have it anyway. Thanks guys!
#29
You guys were right! Changed out the header gasket and now the car sounds and runs amazing. I could feel the air leaking out with my hands when I checked it. There is a little bit of a leak on the other header gasket too. Guess I will change that one out too this weekend since I have it anyway. Thanks guys!
#30
Issues!
Of course once everything is great a new problem arises. Car runs fine for about 10-15 mins when it get to operating temp. Then the car starts hesitating when I touch the gas. Problem gets worse as car runs for longer. Please help!