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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 06-29-2014, 09:05 AM   #1
import slayer
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Default Rebuild or sell?

Last night I took my '82GT to the track for the first time since I got my heads rebuild last fall with screw-in studs and roller rockers, valve job etc...

At about 330ft, it started missing and breaking up really bad and by the 1000' mark it was popping through the carb. I'm 99% sure the cam lobes are wiped out judging from how it sounds and is acting.

Before any of this happened though, I was seriously considering selling the car this summer. My question is do replace the cam and lifters first or just sell the car as it is and tell potential buyers what it needs? I know it's not worth as much as it would be running correctly but is the added expense of fixing it worth it just to sell it?
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1982 GT 351w(.060),10.7:1 flat top pistons, ported & polished heads, 1.94/1.60 valves,stealth intake, 750 holley dp, Comp 274XE cam, C-4 tranny with 3700 stall converter, 8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes,electric fan.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:32 AM   #2
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I would take a step back and find out whats wrong with the car before I did anything.
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:50 PM   #3
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I would take a step back and find out whats wrong with the car before I did anything.

I will, but I'm 99% sure it's a wiped cam. I've heard that sound way too many times.
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1982 GT 351w(.060),10.7:1 flat top pistons, ported & polished heads, 1.94/1.60 valves,stealth intake, 750 holley dp, Comp 274XE cam, C-4 tranny with 3700 stall converter, 8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes,electric fan.
Tons of mods that are too much to list
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:25 PM   #4
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I'd replace the cam or sell it as a roller if you're positive that's what it is. You'd probably make more on the sale if it ran properly.
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:35 PM   #5
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I will, but I'm 99% sure it's a wiped cam. I've heard that sound way too many times.
wiped cam is not the only thing that'll do that, you need to run a compression test, then leak down and if that yields no results run a vaccum test and watch needle fluctuation that'll indicate valves not opening far enough then pull rocker rover and watch movement of rockers........bent push rods, bent valves, burnt valves and issues with rocker adjustment can all cause the same issues, so troubleshoot before jumping to conclusions......if it is a wiped cam, either you didn't break the cam in right or didn't use zddp additive for flat tappet cams
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:45 PM   #6
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wiped cam is not the only thing that'll do that, you need to run a compression test, then leak down and if that yields no results run a vaccum test and watch needle fluctuation that'll indicate valves not opening far enough then pull rocker rover and watch movement of rockers........bent push rods, bent valves, burnt valves and issues with rocker adjustment can all cause the same issues, so troubleshoot before jumping to conclusions......if it is a wiped cam, either you didn't break the cam in right or didn't use zddp additive for flat tappet cams

Bottom end was rebuild several years ago but I did NOT use a zinc additive. I only learned about modern oils not having zinc only after last Friday night. I do plan to start by pulling the valve covers and inspecting the rockers, pushrods, etc.
Compression readings were between 160-175 only a few weeks ago and vacuum was at 15, with a pretty much steady needle reading, considering the cam it has. This car only fires up before races and when it's at the track. Any other time, it sets in the garage and collects dust.
The only things that have changed within the last several months is the heads getting rebuild (at a good machine shop) and the addition of roller rockers, which I installed and adjusted and had somebody else verify that I did it correctly.

With all this being said, that's why I have it narrowed down to a wiped cam. I'm going to tear it all down anyway, but I'm pretty sure it's the cam and lifters.
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1982 GT 351w(.060),10.7:1 flat top pistons, ported & polished heads, 1.94/1.60 valves,stealth intake, 750 holley dp, Comp 274XE cam, C-4 tranny with 3700 stall converter, 8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes,electric fan.
Tons of mods that are too much to list
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:21 AM   #7
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heard it before? it is my uinderstanding that cam wipeout is mostly a new breaking thing? i know plenty of people running their flat tappet cams hard and no problems and no zinc.
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Old 07-02-2014, 11:41 PM   #8
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Check the cam with a dial indicator on the rocker arms, if it shows the lift being what it's supposed to be then the cam is good.....
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:56 AM   #9
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heard it before? it is my uinderstanding that cam wipeout is mostly a new breaking thing? i know plenty of people running their flat tappet cams hard and no problems and no zinc.
only borrowed time
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:56 AM
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