5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
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I have a 1985 mustang gt hatchback with a 302 stock everything. the only thing ive done so far is put a k&n air filter and put bbk shorty headers with a offroad h pipe dual hump cross member with flowmaster exhaust. Im looking for some more horsepower but with about a 5000$ budget. the car has 116kms on it and has been well taken care of. what would be the most bang for my buck.
ive never owned a mustang before so im new
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The stock drive shaft is fine. That's always something you can upgrade down the road if you still have the mod bug. With a 5 grand budget you should have a pretty stout running fox when your done. Trick flow offers a top end kit that's makes 360HP for $2800. Throw in a grand worth of exhaust and a few suspension mods along with some decent gears and you'll have a pretty quick car.
__________________ ENGINE363 forged dart engine. 300 shot!TRANNY C4 with trans brake, 3800 stall, 9in. raceconverter, hurst shifter REAR Moser 35 spline kit with spool, FRPP 3.73 gearsSUSPENION UPR Upper & lower control arms, Strange 10 way dampers, coilovers up front, BBK sub frame connectors, UPR Tube K-member & A-arms NEW Mustang TIMES COMING. 2011 Camaro SS firstname.lastname@example.org
IIRC, 85 5.0s had a 7.5" rear end. A junkyard 8.8" would be a nice upgrade. Then a budget HCI package and of course, Suspension & Tire upgrades. If you shop around, this can all be done on a budget and you'll end up with a nice cruiser.
Welcome to the forum. With that kind of money, you'll be set with a very nice Fox. I'd start be just digging around in this forum with the "search", type in anything you want to know about. It's all been covered before, what works, what doesn't. You'll be reading for days and getting a good education on modding. I personally would start with a set of gears for the rear. Best bang for the buck there is on these cars. Good luck and keep us updated.
Edit: but as Sharad said, swap in an 8.8, don't use the 7.5 that's in there now.
306 with all bolt ons, letter cam, ported E7's, T5 swap, full exhaust, 3:55's, 2" drop, and the worst paint you'll ever see or feel.
Dyno'd 300/316, 2745lbs-track scale
Best ET………12.4@108, 1.66 60ft on 8" ET Drags.
24 mpg (combined)
great thx. do u think putting sub frame braces on would be a good idea. and I was also thinking of an aluminum driveshaft or do u think that's a waist of money?
I think the general consensus around here is that sub frame connectors are a good idea no matter what.
I'm putting them on mine, not really because I'm making a lot of HP, but my '87 is a T-Top car, so I imagine it's more susceptible to flex.
As far as the aluminum driveshaft, I don't have one on my '87 yet, but I had one on my '89 GT and it was by far one of the best mods I ever did. It knocked out vibrations that I didn't even realize I had. The car felt like a new car afterwards. I'll be putting one on my '87 but it's fairly low on the priority list right now.
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