Highway vibration starting to loosen bolts...
#1
Highway vibration starting to loosen bolts...
Hey guys so when I first got my used foxbody it had a very bad highway vibration. Anything past 80 was actually quite alarming. I had the u-joints rebuilt and that took care of about 80% of it. Great! But still, while I am on the highway, ~60mph and up, the shifter vibrates quite a bit. You cannot see it but if you touch the shifter it's very noticeable. Eh, not a big deal, but now that I've been doing some long drives, the shifter bolts have started to loosen themselves and there's now a rattle under the shifter too (even after I tightened them back up). I think I may have broken something under there.
Now, aluminum drive shafts aren't thaat cheap so I did not want to get one unless I really thought that was it. I have heard that vibrations can hurt your trans/engine mounts and I don't want to do any slow damage too.
Anyone have any other guesses as to what it could be or how to diagnose it?
Thanks a ton
Now, aluminum drive shafts aren't thaat cheap so I did not want to get one unless I really thought that was it. I have heard that vibrations can hurt your trans/engine mounts and I don't want to do any slow damage too.
Anyone have any other guesses as to what it could be or how to diagnose it?
Thanks a ton
#2
hello
sit there and rev your engine to 1500 for 10 secinds then 2000 fir yen then 2500 foir ten.
if it vibrates it is in your engine or clutch etc..
if not the put it on jack stands and run it up to 65 mph.
if it vibrates, remove the tires and secure the drums and do the same thing.
if it stops it is your tires, wheels or a bent axle flange.
.
sit there and rev your engine to 1500 for 10 secinds then 2000 fir yen then 2500 foir ten.
if it vibrates it is in your engine or clutch etc..
if not the put it on jack stands and run it up to 65 mph.
if it vibrates, remove the tires and secure the drums and do the same thing.
if it stops it is your tires, wheels or a bent axle flange.
.
#4
Things that driving with damaged/frozen U-joints can affect.
Pinion bearing ( check for play at the pinion flange ) any slop or up/down side to side play is bad.
Output shaft/tail shaft bearing. ( check for slop at the transmission tail ) Same applies any up/down side to side slop is bad.
Transmission mount. Grab trans tail and push up left right , look for signs of wear in the rubber mount or damaged/loose mounting bolts, at the trans as well as at the mounting point of the frame.
Pinion bearing ( check for play at the pinion flange ) any slop or up/down side to side play is bad.
Output shaft/tail shaft bearing. ( check for slop at the transmission tail ) Same applies any up/down side to side slop is bad.
Transmission mount. Grab trans tail and push up left right , look for signs of wear in the rubber mount or damaged/loose mounting bolts, at the trans as well as at the mounting point of the frame.
#5
Okay well I went under there and pushed everything around, there is no up and down play in the diff pinion but the yolk in the tailshaft of the transmission knocks up and down about a 1 mm. If I made a video you could not see it move but you could hear the knock of it moving for example. I don't know if that is enough to make a vibration but it would make sense since the vibration is such a high frequency. How the heck do you replace that bearing??? Is it a huge job?
Thanks a ton from everyone!
Thanks a ton from everyone!
#6
You may have a bad tail shaft bushing, as well.
Drain the fluid , pull the drive shaft out and see if you can move the out put shaft around. My t45 is very similar to the t5 at the out put bearing and bushing, when I rebuilt it there was no play at all in the tail shaft, but a tiny bit may be acceptable.
There is a brass or bronze bushing in the tail shaft that supports the drive shaft yoke and it is likely worn out. There should be no play there at all once the drive shaft is installed.
There is a special tool that you can use to remove that bushing and install a new one. Look for tool "JT-0160A" with out it your stuck pulling the tail housing off the trans to get the bushing out. Eventually the trans will start leaking fluid past it. It sounds to me like that is your vibration.
Drain the fluid , pull the drive shaft out and see if you can move the out put shaft around. My t45 is very similar to the t5 at the out put bearing and bushing, when I rebuilt it there was no play at all in the tail shaft, but a tiny bit may be acceptable.
There is a brass or bronze bushing in the tail shaft that supports the drive shaft yoke and it is likely worn out. There should be no play there at all once the drive shaft is installed.
There is a special tool that you can use to remove that bushing and install a new one. Look for tool "JT-0160A" with out it your stuck pulling the tail housing off the trans to get the bushing out. Eventually the trans will start leaking fluid past it. It sounds to me like that is your vibration.
#7
Okay, well I found the bushing I believe.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-tail...1995/p/HW2396/
So I'm confused. Even if I get the tool (http://www.chythar.net/stangnet/tool...ing_tool_2.jpg), will I still have to remove the tailshaft? I don't see how the tool could help while the output shaft is still in the way.
I cannot find any info or videos anywhere of how to use this tool.
Thanks!
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-tail...1995/p/HW2396/
So I'm confused. Even if I get the tool (http://www.chythar.net/stangnet/tool...ing_tool_2.jpg), will I still have to remove the tailshaft? I don't see how the tool could help while the output shaft is still in the way.
I cannot find any info or videos anywhere of how to use this tool.
Thanks!
#8
#9
Oh wow that's super helpful! Doesn't look that bad. I think this is the one that would work the T-5: http://www.atoztool.com/2200.html
I read in another thread (https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...t-bushing.html) that the TS bushing often needs to be honed once you put it in because it is too tight for the yolk.
Who knows anything about honing??? If I put it in and it was too tight, could pull out the bushing and take it to a shop or something?
I am at school so I'm thinking worst case scenario is that I put it in and the yolk doesn't fit in at all and I have to put the old one back in temporarily until I figure it out.
I read in another thread (https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...t-bushing.html) that the TS bushing often needs to be honed once you put it in because it is too tight for the yolk.
Who knows anything about honing??? If I put it in and it was too tight, could pull out the bushing and take it to a shop or something?
I am at school so I'm thinking worst case scenario is that I put it in and the yolk doesn't fit in at all and I have to put the old one back in temporarily until I figure it out.