5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
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I think I found the answer to this question in another thread, but if anyone can confirm I would appreciate it.
My 86 GT has had the Cobra intake on it since I have owned it, which does not have the coolant lines running to it, since there is no EGR spacer on the Cobra intake. It is all one piece. I am moving to a new intake (the Professional Products knock-off of the Edelbrock Performer), which will require the EGR spacer (I'm in Cali and have to pass SMOG).
From what I have read, the coolant lines run from one of the rear ports on the lower intake, to the back of the EGR spacer, then from the front of the ERG spacer to the heater supply/return tube. My heater tube has a small connecting tube that sticks straight up from it, which appears to have been plugged when the Cobra intake was installed. My plan is to unplug that connection and connect some new hoses as described above. Since the shop manual does not seem to cover those connections, I was hoping someone could confirm that this is in fact the correct way to connect the EGR spacer coolant lines.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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So, I guess actually you are pro-smog, not anti-smog.
Unfortunately, being in CA, if you want to still drive on the street, I have to stay emissions legal. I would love to eliminate all of my emissions stuff, but still want to be able to license the car for the road.
I certainly makes sense to try and cool the air before entering the intake manifold, it just doesn't seem like it would really do much to help that. I guess 180-200 degree coolant is colder than a hot intake manifold.
Saw this right before I was going to make a thread. Please someone help! I have a stock 1990 5.0 GT, I had to replace the gasket from my throttle body to the egr/spacer. The old gasket was caked on there so badly I used a small pneumatic grinder to get it off. In doing so I must've scratched the surfaces on both the Throttle body and the egr. I started it up and coolant leaked everywhere! Started to get drawn in through the intake and engine started to bog and almost died before i turned it off. My questions are
How do I bypass the coolant lines? I dont want any coolant at all going through so it can leak and get drawn into my engine. Do I just take those two black hoses running into the egr and 1.) Put them together somehow, or 2.) Cap them off somehow?
Secondly, reading up on this issue many people argue about what the purpose is. Assuming it is to cool the exhaust gases, people said there will be a problem of the egr getting hot and my main CONCERN, the engine pinging or detonating and stuff. How do I avoid this? Delete the egr somehow? Just plug up the lines to it? Please someone help I am desperate!!!
Idk I don't believe in myself for that to work to well, deleting/bypassing seems simple enough, I just want to know the few specifics of exactly what to do.
If you decide to delete it, I recommend the the Accufab throttle body and EGR delete spacer.
I got this for my '87, I needed a throttle body anyway, and the car was running like crap due to faulty EGR components so I went the delete route. I don't have to worry about emissions in Texas so spending the money fixing all of the EGR stuff versus deleting it was a no brainer. I don't know about your situation and your state laws. Also, with a 1990 model, you'll either have to buy a jumper that tricks the computer, or you'll have to live with your check engine light on all the time. They sell them on Ebay from time to time, or you can make your own, I've seen the plans on the innerwebs.
Here's the parts I got, I think you can just buy the spacer if your throttle body is OK:
If you unplug the vac line from the valve the pcm will delete the function and not set a visible CEL. Then you can bypass the spacer with no issues. You still have egr gases going up to the spacer but you wont have any drivability issues.
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