5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
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Hey, this is not as hard as it sounds. I just went through this. Ok, so there are a few different ways to get this done.
In order to PROPERLY delete the EGR valve, you need to get a tuner/tuner chip to delete the function of the EGR valve. If you do not, your car will not run the way it should. American Muscle sells those Bama chips, which is what I have. They are good, but not as good as a 1,000 dollar tuning system. It does the job though and you have that extra option to use it as a security system to shut the computer off in bad neighborhoods. With the Bama chip, you can delete the function and check engine light, so that problem is solved.
Then with those two radiator hoses, you can either find a way to connect the lines, or delete the lines. I personally said screw the heater core (since mine was busted anyways. Deleted the heater core and heater core tube, and pluged the other line that comes out of the lower manifold.
What you could also do with the radiator lines is plug the line that comes from the lower manifold, and then seal the line that comes from the heater core tube. With the heater core tube you can find a plug you trust, or I can sell you mine that is powder coated and I welded the line shut.
Now for the EGR spacer plate... DO NOT BUY A SHORT PLATE LIKE THE ONE TRICK FLOW SELLS. Buy a regular size EGR delete plate, otherwise you will have to delete your cruise control and buy a new throttle body linkage like I did... just buy the regular size EGR delete spacer and you will be good to go.
As for the EGR valve itself. Take it off, put black tape around all the sensor plug-ins, and keep it in your garage until your sure your car is running perfect.
Once your done, double check the TPS voltage, double check the base idle, and see how she drives. You should be fine though.
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If you want to keep the EGR valve, the easiest way to fix your problem is to either buy a new EGR spacer, or grain your current one on A FLAT SURFACE. Be sure it's as flat as possible. Then plug everything back in, change your gasket again, and be sure to use new throttle body bolts/studs.
IMO do not delete the radiator coolant lines if you have the EGR running. From what I read those coolant lines serve three purposes, 1. for cold start ups 2. to cool the EGR valve hot gases. 3. to **** me off by robbing me of hp.
Found this on another site, where is this vaccum line located?!? This is the one I would like to plug as it is said to have the computer stop using the EGR
"disconnect the vacuum line from your egr valve and plug it. thats it. this way you will not have a CEL come on and the ECM will know the EGR is inoperable and will disable EGR strategy, preventing detonation and other driveability issues." Also any suggestions for what to use to join the two coolant hoses together? I don't know what it would be called but basically I want a small piece of metal that i can stick into each hose and then tighten the hose clamps onto.
So I finally capped everything off and made the cross over. How lnog do you think it'll take for the coolant to burn off? I am concerned because when I did my valve cover I had to retap a thread and I think I got metal shavings in my engine. I changed oil and flsuhed with thinner oil. But when I started the car up it smoked a lot (i assume from all the anti-freeze) but now it is still smoking consistently and blowing smoke out of the tailpipe. It doesn't smell like anti-freeze either. I'm worried the shavings got in and ate my cylinder walls now I am burning oil
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