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EGR leaking coolant, how to bypass?

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Old 09-04-2014, 10:06 PM   #1
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Unhappy EGR leaking coolant, how to bypass?

Posted in another thread and didn't receive many answers, so here it goes. I have a stock 1990 5.0 GT, I had to replace the gasket from my throttle body to the egr/spacer. The old gasket was caked on there so badly I used a small pneumatic grinder to get it off. In doing so I must've scratched the surfaces on both the Throttle body and the egr. I started it up and coolant leaked everywhere! Started to get drawn in through the intake and engine started to bog and almost died before i turned it off. My questions are
How do I bypass the coolant lines? I dont want any coolant at all going through so it can leak and get drawn into my engine. Do I just take those two black hoses running into the egr and 1.) Put them together somehow, or 2.) Cap them off somehow?
Secondly, reading up on this issue many people argue about what the purpose is. Assuming it is to cool the exhaust gases, people said there will be a problem of the egr getting hot and my main CONCERN, the ecu doing certain things, resulting in engine pinging or detonating and stuff. How do I avoid this? Delete the egr somehow? Just plug up the lines to it? Please someone help I am desperate!!!
Bottom line is: If i make a crossover for the two coolant hoses(simple enough), you apparently need to make sure hot exhaust gasses are not circulating in as well, how do I stop this? I'm thinking just taking off the line that feeds it and plugging it up(whichever line that is) but I read place that you will also need a pheunetioc thing, that goes in the upper intake manifold somehow and stops exhaust gasses? I don't understand please someone clear this up for me! Like even if I bought one of those delete spacers I would still have to do something with the coolant hoses and EGR stuff.
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:16 PM   #2
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phenolic spacer* is what people say you will also need.
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:47 PM   #3
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Reading up more and more, I am getting consistently more confused. So far I've found 2 things that are said to stop the EGR gasses from getting in and making things hot. The phenolic spacer( http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ph...rkit-8693.html), which from my understanding goes between the upper intake and the lower. Then I also found this egr delete plate(http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...delete-86.html), where the hell does this go?
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:54 PM   #4
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Just delete it. Cheapest, easiest fix.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:00 AM   #5
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How do I go about deleting it? What do I need to plug take off etc????
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:39 AM   #6
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Get a delete plate for the manifold, an exhaust manifold cap for where the tube connects to your manifold or header, plug lines and your good. It's an easy job. If you get messed up just post photos on here and most of the guys will be able to walk you thru it.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:28 AM   #7
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And get your EGR plate and throttle body machined or ground flat again. I don't know how bad you ground into it, but if coolant was pouring out and also getting sucked into the motor, that's going to be a big air leak and your car will run like crap.

Those seals around there need to be air tight.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:53 PM   #8
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Click the image to open in full size. So these are the lines I found. The one was already like that, its just the end part with no hose connected to it. It's obvious where it connects to in the bundle of hoses. Do i plug this? I also found another one down right behind/below the egr diaphragm itself. Plug this one? I now understand where the egr delete plate would bolt to and why people do it to clean up the engine bay.
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:55 PM   #9
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Just click the little blank picture and it will bring you to imgur.com with all the pics i took.
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:09 PM   #10
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Well unfortunetly your photos wont open for me. But the block off plate that goes on the intake is a metal plate with two screws. (First Link) Put some perma-tex on the inside between the plate and the intake that you hit with a grinder so it doesn't leak. Trace the hoses back to their sorce and block them off. Use vacuum block off boots for vacuum line.(Second link) and finally you can run a hose from the inlet to the outlet of the cooling lines if you need. You'll also need to block off the exhaust egr port. (Third Link)Heres links to everything you'll need. Shop around and you can probably find all the parts cheaper than this.



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Old 09-06-2014, 07:37 AM   #11
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Hey, this is not as hard as it sounds. I just went through this. Ok, so there are a few different ways to get this done.

In order to PROPERLY delete the EGR valve, you need to get a tuner/tuner chip to delete the function of the EGR valve. If you do not, your car will not run the way it should. American Muscle sells those Bama chips, which is what I have. They are good, but not as good as a 1,000 dollar tuning system. It does the job though and you have that extra option to use it as a security system to shut the computer off in bad neighborhoods. With the Bama chip, you can delete the function and check engine light, so that problem is solved.

Then with those two radiator hoses, you can either find a way to connect the lines, or delete the lines. I personally said screw the heater core (since mine was busted anyways. Deleted the heater core and heater core tube, and pluged the other line that comes out of the lower manifold.

What you could also do with the radiator lines is plug the line that comes from the lower manifold, and then seal the line that comes from the heater core tube. With the heater core tube you can find a plug you trust, or I can sell you mine that is powder coated and I welded the line shut.

Now for the EGR spacer plate... DO NOT BUY A SHORT PLATE LIKE THE ONE TRICK FLOW SELLS. Buy a regular size EGR delete plate, otherwise you will have to delete your cruise control and buy a new throttle body linkage like I did... just buy the regular size EGR delete spacer and you will be good to go.

As for the EGR valve itself. Take it off, put black tape around all the sensor plug-ins, and keep it in your garage until your sure your car is running perfect.

Once your done, double check the TPS voltage, double check the base idle, and see how she drives. You should be fine though.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:42 AM   #12
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If you want to keep the EGR valve, the easiest way to fix your problem is to either buy a new EGR spacer, or grain your current one on A FLAT SURFACE. Be sure it's as flat as possible. Then plug everything back in, change your gasket again, and be sure to use new throttle body bolts/studs.

IMO do not delete the radiator coolant lines if you have the EGR running. From what I read those coolant lines serve three purposes, 1. for cold start ups 2. to cool the EGR valve hot gases. 3. to **** me off by robbing me of hp.
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:49 PM   #13
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Found this on another site, where is this vaccum line located?!? This is the one I would like to plug as it is said to have the computer stop using the EGR
"disconnect the vacuum line from your egr valve and plug it. thats it. this way you will not have a CEL come on and the ECM will know the EGR is inoperable and will disable EGR strategy, preventing detonation and other driveability issues." Also any suggestions for what to use to join the two coolant hoses together? I don't know what it would be called but basically I want a small piece of metal that i can stick into each hose and then tighten the hose clamps onto.
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:00 PM   #14
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You don't need a tune, you don't need a chip. The EGR only works when the car is warming up for the most part. Just block it off and forget about it. You guys are way over thinking this.
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2011 Camaro SS 12.34@110.92
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:49 PM   #15
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You're right, you don't need a chip. It's just one way of doing it so you don't get a CEL. That's how I did it, and I had good results.
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Old 09-07-2014, 08:30 PM   #16
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So I finally capped everything off and made the cross over. How lnog do you think it'll take for the coolant to burn off? I am concerned because when I did my valve cover I had to retap a thread and I think I got metal shavings in my engine. I changed oil and flsuhed with thinner oil. But when I started the car up it smoked a lot (i assume from all the anti-freeze) but now it is still smoking consistently and blowing smoke out of the tailpipe. It doesn't smell like anti-freeze either. I'm worried the shavings got in and ate my cylinder walls now I am burning oil
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:42 PM   #17
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why would you not take the valve cover off the engine if your drilling and tapping into it???
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ENGINE363 forged dart engine. 300 shot!TRANNY C4 with trans brake, 3800 stall, 9in. raceconverter, hurst shifter REAR Moser 35 spline kit with spool, FRPP 3.73 gearsSUSPENION UPR Upper & lower control arms, Strange 10 way dampers, coilovers up front, BBK sub frame connectors, UPR Tube K-member & A-arms NEW Mustang TIMES COMING.
2011 Camaro SS 12.34@110.92

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Old 09-07-2014, 09:42 PM
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