5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

88 5.0L HO LX, I want to make this baby scream!

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Old 11-14-2014, 05:50 AM
  #21  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by nosy324
yes, but I see they have a stage 2 kit and says will work with various inj choices and with your goal of 300-400 lets say rwhp for now 24-30 lb inj are what you'll need and the only way that kit will work with 3-4 sets of inj choices are, is if they are sending a few different sample tubes for the maf for what ever inj you choose and iirc C AND L is the maf that uses sample tubes, not my favorite choice for a maf as often you have to clock the maf to get the car to run right, but people here have them and do use them to a degree of sucess, I use Pro-m mafs specifically altered/"calibrated" for the inj I choose......so now that we're on the same page you'll need to decide what hp range to shoot for as all your gt-40 stuff and mild cam will net you somewhere in the 260-270 rwhp range which will equate to around 300 flywheel and is not a set up that'll roast/scream past all the ricers you encounter....trust me I know.....last gt-40 head, gt-40 intake and tfs 1 cam with alex spring kit I did a few months ago dyno'd 263 rwhp and was okay but not a rocket by any means...car now sports a s/c and laid down 406 rwhp on 8 lbs.............anyway if you're gonna shoot for 350+ rwhp most do it with a 347 and the combo needs to be well thought out, so if you're gonna use what you have, meaning 302 bottom end and you'd like 300-350 rwhp, you NEED to pay attention to detail....and I mean not just slap a bunch of parts together.........parts need to be selected carefully for a 302 combo that'll produce 325-350 rwhp and that ain't gonna happen with the parts barnett your new buddy keeps trying to push on you.......so lets start simple and get that maf conversion done as your first mod on the way to an well selected h/c/i that'll come close to your goal and fit your budget......just be patient.......next step will be select a h/c/i, once you do that you'll know what inj needs will be for 300-325 rwhp 24-30 lb inj are a good choice..........my vert before s/c put down around 290-300 rwhp with 24's so before purchasing a maf kit decide the hp range, I'd say the stage 2 kit will fit your goal nicely.
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:21 AM
  #22  
nosy324
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Originally Posted by mjr46
yes, but I see they have a stage 2 kit and says will work with various inj choices and with your goal of 300-400 lets say rwhp for now 24-30 lb inj are what you'll need and the only way that kit will work with 3-4 sets of inj choices are, is if they are sending a few different sample tubes for the maf for what ever inj you choose and iirc C AND L is the maf that uses sample tubes, not my favorite choice for a maf as often you have to clock the maf to get the car to run right, but people here have them and do use them to a degree of sucess, I use Pro-m mafs specifically altered/"calibrated" for the inj I choose......so now that we're on the same page you'll need to decide what hp range to shoot for as all your gt-40 stuff and mild cam will net you somewhere in the 260-270 rwhp range which will equate to around 300 flywheel and is not a set up that'll roast/scream past all the ricers you encounter....trust me I know.....last gt-40 head, gt-40 intake and tfs 1 cam with alex spring kit I did a few months ago dyno'd 263 rwhp and was okay but not a rocket by any means...car now sports a s/c and laid down 406 rwhp on 8 lbs.............anyway if you're gonna shoot for 350+ rwhp most do it with a 347 and the combo needs to be well thought out, so if you're gonna use what you have, meaning 302 bottom end and you'd like 300-350 rwhp, you NEED to pay attention to detail....and I mean not just slap a bunch of parts together.........parts need to be selected carefully for a 302 combo that'll produce 325-350 rwhp and that ain't gonna happen with the parts barnett your new buddy keeps trying to push on you.......so lets start simple and get that maf conversion done as your first mod on the way to an well selected h/c/i that'll come close to your goal and fit your budget......just be patient.......next step will be select a h/c/i, once you do that you'll know what inj needs will be for 300-325 rwhp 24-30 lb inj are a good choice..........my vert before s/c put down around 290-300 rwhp with 24's so before purchasing a maf kit decide the hp range, I'd say the stage 2 kit will fit your goal nicely.
Ok sounds good. Once i wake up and **** ill do some research and so forth on how to do it then order the parts required.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:28 AM
  #23  
yurizx6r
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My advice is to start with supporting mods before you add power. Power is useless unless your drive train and suspension can handle it. I'd start with subframe connectors, bigger tires, strut tower brace, sway bars, transmission (I don't know much about the automatics on this car I have a 5 speed), rear lower control arms, axle splines (glass on our cars), and brakes. Then do whatever you want with the motor and gears. I know the T5 is only rated for 300 ft/lbls of torque (which is stock), the subframe needs reinforcement even with stock power, the rear end fishtails from factory power, and the stock brakes are a pathetic joke. Do those first, then add power.

Last edited by yurizx6r; 11-24-2014 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:30 PM
  #24  
Projectfox88
 
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Default I have a question about head castings

I was told to pull the valve cover I did the only things I see is a casting plate that has two screw cast with the digits 9G25 and there is also a big T on one end and a ford logo cast any ideas are appreciated
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:17 AM
  #25  
88 orangepeel notch
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Originally Posted by Projectfox88
I was told to pull the valve cover I did the only things I see is a casting plate that has two screw cast with the digits 9G25 and there is also a big T on one end and a ford logo cast any ideas are appreciated
????

Did you mean to start a new thread with this? That would be the correct thing to do.
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