9550

i didnt say i wouldnt check the ccrm, i just explained what i did in case it matters, apparently it does.
can i use like a regular metal pin or sewing needle or something to pierce the wire coming out of the ccrm? i dont have one of those special tools to use.

64bit

Dont ever pierce wire coatings. use something like a paperclip or large safety pin to backprobe the connector.

9550

ok, sounds good, thanks
gonna go take a shot in a few minutes.

9550

ok, so i used a paperclip, got about 6.3v coming right out of ccrm, removed paperclip
went and checked the wire at the inertia switch again, got about 6.4
went back and tried to check ccrm again (because im insane), and couldnt get it to read above 0.11volts. then went and checked wire at the inertia switch again and still got 6.4v. i dont know if i should attribute the 0.11 to the paperclip just not hitting right or what, but if im still getting 6.4 at the inertia switch, it has to be coming from the ccrm, right?
so, now that i know i had 12v going in, and 6.4 coming out, its safe to assume ccrm problem?
can there still be any potential ground problem?
for fun i checked the red line, what i believe to be a power line, coming out of the ccrm and got >11v repetitively. i could remove paperclip and reinsert and kept getting readings which makes me wonder why i couldnt get repeated reading from the fuel pump wire. (i actually cehcked the red wire to see if my paperclip insertion technique was good)
anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated

9550

so looks like i can get a ccrm from ebay for relatively cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MUSTANG-COBR...-/151505902656

seems they are used in various models and years and as long as my part number matches, im good to go.
would i be foolish to get a used electronic part like this? should i buy new? do they even make these anymore?


also, is there a way i can test my pump to see if it actually works? like, can i run a wire from the battery to the power feed to the pump and see if it works? or would that potentially harm the pump?


thasnks again for any input

64bit

yes, 12v directly into the inertia switch plug should power on the pump.

9550

so, i ran a wire from the battery to the brown wire that goes right to the pump (comes out of the inertia switch), all i got was a click. same click i heard when i tried to start the car normally. i thought the click was some type of relay, apparently not. i had my head in the trunk when i was doing this and the click sounded like it was coming from below the spare tire, which i imagine is the fuel pump location in the tank.
so, first step appears to be replacing the pump, yes?
somebody had mentioned a potential ground problem, could this still be the case?
im going to hold off on the ccrm until i fix this apparent pump issue
thanks for any input

Js88lx

This is a simple inexpensive job. Its prob best switching a new pump and filter. Mite aswell!

9550

guys, just so i understand;
i ran a wire from the + on the battery to the brown/pink wire that according to wiring diagrams runs right to the pump. with the key in on position but not trying to start the car, i heard a click at what i figure was the fuel pump.
what is making the click sound??
is it the pump trying to move but is stuck?
im trying to understand if if this is 100% a simple bad fuel pump, or if maybe the click indicates some other issue.
im fine with getting a replacement pump, but i dont want to just throw parts at the car and hope.

i didnt think it mattered before, but i was just thinking about it, and there at one time was an external t-rex pump on the car that came with the vortech. i removed the external pump. i dont remember what i did with the wires, and i dont know if the wiring was cut into the existing wiring or a new power feed was ran from someplace else to the pump. i also dont remember if the in tank pump ever worked after i removed the t-rex. i may have removed the t-rex during the period i was taking the engine apart, or i may have taken the t-rex off prior to the engine tear down but never ran the car after removal.

im going to go crawl under there today and see if i can see anything.

thanks for any input

9550

for those of you following along, i took a look at the wiring that was feeding the t-rex. positive came from a new wire ran to the front of the car. not sure exactly where it lands up front, but the end where the pump was is cut off and taped. the ground for the pump was connected to the body of the car. so it doesnt appear any stock wiring was altered to add the trex and since its gone, i think we can eliminate it as any source of problems.

so, i am planning to drop the gas tank. tank is full though because i filled it before taking the engine apart. i tried to snake a tube into the tank to siphon out as much gas as possible, but it seems theres something right at the end of the filler tube (at the tank end of the filler tube, not at where the gas pump nozzle gets inserted) thats not letting my hose get into the tank. does this sound right?

if i cant get a tube in there, im going to have to carefully drop it full. so im thinking i get a 1x6 or something to span the bottom of the tank and support it with a jack and then loosen the straps and lower it nice and carefully. once i get the straps unfastened, maybe i can slide the tank sideways to get the filler neck out of the tank so i can get a hose in there and drain it as much as possible?

is there anything else i could do?
the filler neck is loose, but i cant get it out of the tank without moving the tank it appears.
thanks in advance for any help