majahpayne8506

Im looking to build a 331 stroker with a hydraulic roller cam with C80E-6015-A block. Already drilled for spider in valley a clearanced for a girdle. Any other modifications I need to be aware of? My combo consists of DSS 331 rotating assembly with SX forged low compression pistons, moly rings, I beam rods, polished crank and fully balanced, stage 3 ported twisted wedge heads, trick flow stage 3 cam w/1.6 rockers stud mounted, gt-40 intake (tubular), 75 mm throttle body, 76mm mass air 42 lb hr injectors, 2 x 255 lph pumps, msd btm, procharger p-600 kit with 16 lb pulley, exedy stage 3 clutch, amp performance built t-5, yukon axles and 3.55 gears. Tires are 275/35/17 nt-o5 drag radials. Is this block significantly stronger than e7te block?

uedlose

So you are gone to run a small base circle cam and a stock roller lifter then right? If I was you I would just buy a set or the retro fit link bar hyd. lifters be done with it and have much better cam selection small base circle camshafts are getting hard to find even if you have one custom ground the blanks are just not out there
I never ran the older block before but I did crack a newer roller block. I just went A/M block after that. But I did talk with Keith Craft at Keith Craft racing and he said the older block could hold 75 to 100 HP more so he said and he messes with a bunch of race stuff. You better make sure your tune is on.

majahpayne8506

I was thinking of going with link bar style lifters. I was told the same thing about the older blocks by a reputable machine shop locally. Said they had a higher nickel content. Tuning will be handled by Chris Groves of the Dyno Edge here locally. Tuned it before and never had a issue, just stock bottom end wore out. Will be running E85

mjr46

spider in the valley will be totally useless and do nothing.......cap walk is the issue, higher nickel content in the older blocks is a myth never proven.......the main reason they are a tad stronger is the main bolt holes do not go all the way through and the bulk head area is a tad thicker up to the cam journals which is where they all end up splitting too, and main caps are a tad heavier duty.............stroker + boost+ e85 = I'd seriously look into a stronger block...........depending on your boost level, you'll quickly exceed the reliable limit of the block. best of luck.

tinman

I use studs on the mains in my early block which is a 69 truck block. Get the block aligned honed anyway as the new crank alone will warrant that.
I run carb with out any power adder and this thing goes 7000RPM anytime I want it to.
I've run it with a .060 overbore for about 4 years now with no real problems on a 3.400 stroke crank.
Goes 10.85 in 4500 foot air density in a 2775# car......