Stupid fuel pressure regulator question
#13
If that car won't do 12's, I'd leave it there lol.
Give us some details...... tranny, gears, car weight, etc. If you can pull a decent 60' you should be mid 12's fairly easy.
Alright, 13.2 first pass, 12.7 by the end of the night.
Give us some details...... tranny, gears, car weight, etc. If you can pull a decent 60' you should be mid 12's fairly easy.
Alright, 13.2 first pass, 12.7 by the end of the night.
#14
Engine: BBK CAI, C&L 73mm MAF, 70mm TB, Trickflow intake/heads/stage 1 cam, 30lbl injectors, stock bottom, MSD 6AL box, 3G alternator, 9mm spark plug wires, all polyurethane mounts, Bama Chip (will tune once I have heads done), long tube headers, off road H pipe, and Flowmasters Cat back.
Drive train: T5 transmission with Ram HDX clutch, Steeda short throw shifter, Maximum Motorsports clutch cable and quadrant, aluminum drive shaft, Yukon axle splines with 5 lug arp conversion, and 3.08 final gear ratio.
Suspension: Eibach sway bars, Ford racing B springs, Maximum Motorsports: subframe connectors, caster/caber plates, extreme duty rear lower control arms, power steering shaft, KYB struts, and Steeda strut tower brace.
Brakes: SN95 Cobra brakes front and back with all stainless steel lines and Hawk pads.
Weight reduction: fiberglass cowl hood, aluminum heads, smog delete, EGR delete, and spare tire is out.
Probably more, but that's off the top of my head really.
Drive train: T5 transmission with Ram HDX clutch, Steeda short throw shifter, Maximum Motorsports clutch cable and quadrant, aluminum drive shaft, Yukon axle splines with 5 lug arp conversion, and 3.08 final gear ratio.
Suspension: Eibach sway bars, Ford racing B springs, Maximum Motorsports: subframe connectors, caster/caber plates, extreme duty rear lower control arms, power steering shaft, KYB struts, and Steeda strut tower brace.
Brakes: SN95 Cobra brakes front and back with all stainless steel lines and Hawk pads.
Weight reduction: fiberglass cowl hood, aluminum heads, smog delete, EGR delete, and spare tire is out.
Probably more, but that's off the top of my head really.
#15
Nice mod list, and I'll stick with my times posted above. Those gears might hold you back a little. You should break into the 12's easily, but a decent gear and a set of big and littles with slicks, mid to low 12's with a 60' in the 1.7 - 1.6 range.
I don't know your driving skill, or if you've ever launched a car on slicks. But I can say it's a unbelievable feeling you'll want again once you've figured your car out.
I don't know your driving skill, or if you've ever launched a car on slicks. But I can say it's a unbelievable feeling you'll want again once you've figured your car out.
#16
I think you're right. If I swapped my gears and put slicks on it I have to potential for 12's. I will be popping my cherry at the track, so as for skill.... lets just say novice. I expect 13's-14's based off my gears, tires, and skill level. If I get in the 13's (which I think is reasonable) I'd be pretty happy. If I do go with gears, I'm thinking 3.55's would be just about perfect. I'm always driving on the highway and I like the gas mileage of the 3.08's.
#18
Scratch that, my buddy who's selling me the heads has a Ford E303 cam. I guess it's fine to take that too for $100 bucks? Would anybody see any benefit or point for spending an extra $120 for the TFS stage 1?
#19
I'm not the most knowledgeable on cam selection, but you have a good intake, head setup, I'd research some better options for a cam as it's one of the most important parts in a build. With your setup, I'd even consider a custom grind for little more money. You have some $$$ wrapped up in there now, don't skimp on the cam.
#20
Forgive me for not starting a new thread, but I have another question............... I got all my parts last night. The heads look great, but I'm wondering which head gasket to go with?
Trick Flow suggest http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...FQyEaQodY68AMg
My buddy suggested http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-9333pt1
I also saw: http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-h...kets-7995.html
I'm thinking a composite would be the best for used heads and since I'm not going to send my short block to the machinist. Eventually, I will buy a stroker short block, but years from now. I just want a gasket that will last and not leak. Thoughts?
Trick Flow suggest http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...FQyEaQodY68AMg
My buddy suggested http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-9333pt1
I also saw: http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-h...kets-7995.html
I'm thinking a composite would be the best for used heads and since I'm not going to send my short block to the machinist. Eventually, I will buy a stroker short block, but years from now. I just want a gasket that will last and not leak. Thoughts?