yurizx6r

Update: so I got the heads on again when I got the back from the machine shop. Everything looks good. The gaskets look like they crushed very nice. Last time I thought I was crazy when I saw that the head gasket looked a little big on cylinder #7, but this does not seem to be the case this time.

The issue I am facing now is when I put the lower manifold on.......bitch is still leaking; however, I think it's from the lower manifold this time. My buddy talked me into to torquing them down straight to 20 ft lbs then 25, for whatever reason I agreed. We also did not use the cork gasket and tried the Permatex method, but not on the water jackets. Leaked as soon as I filled up the radiator with water. The next day I tried it it with the cork gasket (in case it sat better) with Permatex above the cork gaskets, but none on the water jackets (I've done this method before with success on my old heads and it held pressure when I first put the new heads on). I put water in the radiator and perfect. It was not until 3 minutes after I put the radiator tester on 16 psi that it started leaking water from the oil pan. Last night I tried it ONE FINAL TIME, no cork gasket/Permatex for the side rails, and Permatex around the water jackets (finger smeared a small layer on the heads and intake). If this does not work tonight I'm junking these POS heads.

yurizx6r

I also do not suspect the heads at this point because I filled up the radiator with water until water started pouring out of the water jackets from the heads and let it sit for 24 hours, the water levels did not go down at all.

64bit

Was the intake side of the heads milled when the decking was done?

If the heads have been milled enough, it can cause a misalignment of the coolant passages between the head and intake.

yurizx6r

See that's what I asked him to do, but he said that was a bad idea because then you run the risk of the ports not lining up and causing a leak so he didn't. I've been thinking about it a lot, and the only thing I can think of is perhaps it's the POS Felpro 1250 gasket!?

When I first put the heads on, I used the $50.00 Ford Racing M9439A50 gasket. It sealed and it held pressure. Then after the heads leaked I have been using the Felpro 1250... and no matter which techniques I've used they leak after about 3 minutes under 16 PSI. I spoke with the guy who I bought the heads from and he said he would refund my money, but he wants to personally see how I'm putting it on and he wants to try using the M9439A50 gasket. The more I think about it, perhaps he's right. That 1250 is a POS and you have to cut it. The 1250 is .60 thousands thick and the M9439A50 gasket is .70 plus I think it's steel core reinforced?

He also is questioning if it's a good idea to do a radiator pressure test without running the car through a heat cycle.... I would think that should not matter right!? Also, he said he just torques the lower intake bolts to 25 ft lbs and leaves it, as I have always stepped it up from finger tight (using the Ford sequence) to 8 ft lbls, 15 ft lbs, and then 25 ft lbs. Thoughts?

What it looks like is we are going to try this one last time, and if it leaks I'm junking these heads and perhaps my whole engine and buying a freshly rebuilt 331 stroker he has for 3,500. I almost hope it leaks at this point because I am DONE with this stupid project.

yurizx6r

So far, the best results I've had is stepping it up, not using the cork gasket and Permatex the water jackets. I've tried using the cork/not using the cork, Permatex the water jackets and not. Each combo has failed with the Felpro 1250.

mjr46

the 1250 is not the problem, have run them on numerous motor.....iirc there is a 1250 that has a steel core laminate that I use on my 89 s/c vert

yurizx6r

Right it's the Felpro 1250 S3, but I've never used it. Either way I do not understand why I am having so many problems. This should have sealed, and the machinist said that the marked x over cylinder 7 (the one that leaked) disappeared after 5 thousands came off the ends, so even if he took off 10-15 thousands, that should not cause a problem in the valleys. If the Ford racing gasket does not work, then I give up. I have no idea what the hell is going on.

mjr46

what intake are you using?? also so shift while torqueing doesn't occur I use thread rod dowel in the corner bolt holes of the intake so as to locate the intake and gasket shift doesn't occur and I use edelbrock gaskachinch to glue gasket in place

yurizx6r

Trick Flow Street burner intake with ARP bolts. I always check all the intake runners to make sure it lines up properly. My procedure is just put the intake on, line it up if needed, then put the bolts in (not tighten them yet), recheck the gasket, finger tighten all the bolts in sequence, recheck the gasket, tighten to 25 inch pounds until every bolt clicks over and over until everything clicks when I pass it, then 8 to 15 to 20 to 25 ft pounds all in sequence and over and over until each bolt is done settling.

bluebeastsrt

The only thing I can ad to this is I use ARP studs on the intake. It locates the the gasket and the intake. Then follow proper torque sequence.