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Block deck and straightedge question

Old 04-09-2015, 01:20 PM
  #31  
yurizx6r
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Let me ask you guys this... is there anything that I am doing wrong!? Are you NOT supposed to step it up like I am or am I not supposed to do a radiator pressure test before a heat cycle? I just don't understand why it sealed the first time, but not now.

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Old 04-09-2015, 02:14 PM
  #32  
mjr46
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here is what I do:

1. thoroughly clean all surfaces,
2. add small bead around water jacket areas of "the right stuff"
3. gascachinch/glue gasket in place....let sit the 5 min time required
4. Right stuff the china walls getting a little under the corner of the gaskets
5. small bead around top of gasket in water jacket areas
6. set intake down evenly and if not using centering dowels I stick all the bolts in holes before setting intake so as to guide them down into place
7. then I follow proper torque sequence after screwing them bolts all in lightly after all are seated I do about 3 steps of torque and 15-20 min later I go back and recheck torque and then after a few heat cycles I recheck as well....heck on my 85 in the winter I have to retorque them which is one reason I went to the steel laminate to lessen that process

I rarely ever pressure test until after a few heat cycles if needed...................
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Old 04-09-2015, 04:09 PM
  #33  
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I never pressure test. I figure the first start is all the test it'll ever need.
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Old 04-10-2015, 05:57 AM
  #34  
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Well usually I would not pressure test it, but since I was having leaks from the heads/head gasket I wanted to make sure that I didn't have a problem before I pissed another 100 bucks in gaskets, oil, oil filter, and coolant.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:40 AM
  #35  
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Well...........leaks. After 20 minutes of 12 psi the pressure dropped 1 psi and drops on the floor. It's the heads for sure because I was able to fit a 5 thousands feeler gauge at an angle on two of the water jackets. I permatexed the living hell out of it and still leaked. I called my guy up and he said he will take the heads back and give me $200 for all the wasted gaskets and fluids (pretty stand up I think).

I also went ahead and told him to take this 331 stroker motor he has for sale off craigslist and bring it over to me. Motor has less than 300 miles on it

Eagle Crank
Eagle Forged I-Beam rods ARP rod bolts
Bottom end girdle ARP main bolts
Billet Flywheel with ARP bolts
Aftermarket damper
Fully balanced rotating assembly

SRP Forged flat top pistons 10.4 to 1 compression

AFR 185 Renegade Heads 58cc… 2.02/1.60 valves
ARP head bolts
Harland Sharp Roller RockersHardened push rods

7 quart pan
Comp Cam xe274hr

Hardened oil pump drive shaft

Motor has over 180 psi of compression in every hole
And has over 50 psi oil pressure.

The only thing is that I'm taking the camshaft out and putting in the E303 cam. That's a stage 4 cam designed for a supercharger (which was on the car it came out of), and I'm running naturally aspirated. I should have done this from the start.
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Old 04-13-2015, 11:30 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by yurizx6r
Well...........leaks. After 20 minutes of 12 psi the pressure dropped 1 psi and drops on the floor. It's the heads for sure because I was able to fit a 5 thousands feeler gauge at an angle on two of the water jackets. I permatexed the living hell out of it and still leaked. I called my guy up and he said he will take the heads back and give me $200 for all the wasted gaskets and fluids (pretty stand up I think).

I also went ahead and told him to take this 331 stroker motor he has for sale off craigslist and bring it over to me. Motor has less than 300 miles on it

Eagle Crank
Eagle Forged I-Beam rods ARP rod bolts
Bottom end girdle ARP main bolts
Billet Flywheel with ARP bolts
Aftermarket damper
Fully balanced rotating assembly

SRP Forged flat top pistons 10.4 to 1 compression

AFR 185 Renegade Heads 58cc… 2.02/1.60 valves
ARP head bolts
Harland Sharp Roller RockersHardened push rods

7 quart pan
Comp Cam xe274hr

Hardened oil pump drive shaft

Motor has over 180 psi of compression in every hole
And has over 50 psi oil pressure.

The only thing is that I'm taking the camshaft out and putting in the E303 cam. That's a stage 4 cam designed for a supercharger (which was on the car it came out of), and I'm running naturally aspirated. I should have done this from the start.


Youre going to absolutely cripple that engine by installing an E303. Leave it alone.
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:31 PM
  #37  
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But the Comp Cam xe274hr is a stage 4 that says "at least 3.55 rear gears minimal." It seems like a very radical cam for an NA car or am I over thinking it? I have the 3.08 gears. I'm almost thinking a Trick Flow stage 2 cam would be good, but I'm waaaaaaaaaaaaay over budget with this damn project already, but I don't want to "cripple" the engine either.

I would LOVE to leave it in there and not touch it, but I don't want to stall out on the street.

2500-stall converter, 3.55-3.73 gears, better cylinder heads, intake and fuel system.

Operating Range: 2200-6200 RPM
Duration Advertised: 274° Intake / 282° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 224° Intake / 232° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.6 Rockers: .555'' Intake / .565'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°

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Old 04-13-2015, 06:59 PM
  #38  
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I did some more research on it, and I'm going to leave the XE274HR camshaft in. I think you're right on that, and thank you for pointing that out. I was worried about how it said "minimal of 3.55 gears," but I guess I will just deal with a slightly slower take off until I have time and 300 bucks to put in 3.55 gears. It's the better camshaft, and why put the E303 cam in and limit the best heads you can buy on the market!?
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:53 PM
  #39  
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By the way if that motor does have 280 miles on it, how long should I baby it until it's safe to open it up?
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by yurizx6r
By the way if that motor does have 280 miles on it, how long should I baby it until it's safe to open it up?
open it up right away...if it's built wrong...it'll go in 0 or less than 500.......no no real reason to baby it
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