yurizx6r

Ok. What oil should I put in it? I typically always use Mobil 1 10W-30, but I've never had a new motor before........let alone one as tricked out as this.

64bit

LOL... far from it. but ok.

When you get the engine, bring it straight to an engine builder and have them "inspect" it. It'll be the best money you ever spend on it.

mjr46

10w 30 is fine....and I wouldn't really call that motor really tricked out..........

barnett468

that cam needs at least 3.73 gears in a 302 and 331 to make it accelerate hard, unless it has a 5 speed trans in which case you could get away with 3.55 . . it also needs at least around 10.5:1 compression which it looks like you have in the 331.

that cam works really well in a 347 stroker or 351 windsor with high flow heads and 3.55 or 3.73 gears but doesnt pull hard with anything numerically lower.
.

yurizx6r

OUCH!!!! MY *****!!! lol I know I'm small fish in the ocean of endless guys with GTR's and big horse power rides, but I'm poor and this motor is "tricked out" to me. lol

@Barnett468: I have the T5 and eventually I will put the 3.55's in as soon as I can, I just was not expecting spending $3,500 on a motor and am over budget at the moment. From what I gather, it seems that the 3.55 gears are preferable to get the best take off because of the power band that camshaft gives, so if I have the 3.08 gears (which I do) my takeoffs will just be slow and a little harder right? Hopefully it will drive decent and not stall out until I can afford to put the gears in.

I'm thinking of just rolling with Rotella 10W-30 for the extra zinc the motor might need to break in properly. Then after 20,000-30,000 miles I'll put the Mobil 1 10w-30 back in.

@64bit: if I take it to an engine builder, what should I have him check specifically? I personally heard this motor run and saw it drive... sort of. It kept stalling out when he came up to stops, but he had a supercharger on it and apparently the motor was built a year ago. Probably a tuning issue, but with the oil pressure and compression numbers, I guess I shouldn't worry at this point.

mjr46

doesn't matter what cam you have in the car...could be stock.........3.08 gears in any car won't make the car accelerate fast even with a stock cam.............and I know you know that.......I laugh when I see people reading the cam recommendations and it says car needs at least xxx gear for yyy camshaft.........there's more to factor in it than just that.......my car needs a 4.30 and possibly even a 4.56 gear to run it's best et's but yet cam manufactorer claims the sweet spot is 3.73....lol.........honestly, yuriz6r......you'd be fine with 3.73's, there isn't really much difference between 3.55 and 3.73's on the highway to really justify 3.55's.........you'd really have the best all around performance and good mpg with the 3.73's

yurizx6r

Thanks mjr46! This is the first time I've ever done any serious engine work, so I'm in new waters. That's why I didn't understand why the said "3.55 gears minimum." I was planning on doing 3.31-3.73 gears down the line anyways. I just wanted to drive one of the gears before I made the choice. Now I guess it gives me motivation to get it done.

barnett468

it might take a bit of getting used to when taking off from a stop but its not a big deal so no, it will not just die when you leave a light if it is properly tuned . . you might just have to let the clutch out a little slow.


please do not read anymore posts on oil...trust me . . do not use rotella . . it is designed for diesels plus it now has less zinc than the gas engine oils that have high zinc levels.

most if not all engine oil has zinc but some have a lot more than others . . it would have been better to use it from the beginning if it were to be used and it would have been better to break it in with break in oil but using it now certainly wont hurt.

valvoline vr-1 and brad penn non synthetics have high levels . . royal purple xps and xpr have high levels and are synthetic.


yes, just a tuning issue but it will still idle rough after it is tuned.
.

yurizx6r

According to Rotella, they have over 1,400 parts per million of zinc in their 10w-30, which is more than most other regular and synthetic oils. VR1 is certainly a good oil, and you're correct when you say that may be the way to go, but I have not heard anything bad about Rotella yet. Why would you say not to use it?

I am not sure what the original builder put in it, but even if it was say Mobil 1 or whatever I'm swapping the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and front main seal anyways, so I should be good to go on using conventional for a while.

mjr46

if you want to use it use it...you'll be fine....we've used it in turbo cars with great success.......everyone has their own opinion on oil.....heck I used 10w40 in an old 81 jetta diesel for 10 years no issue and it was the wal-mart supertech brand....car has 350k now and is sitting until I put a new injection pump on.