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Block deck and straightedge question

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Old 04-16-2015, 10:13 AM
  #51  
yurizx6r
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IMHO most of the oils today are all pretty decent, but obviously some are much better than others. I think the key is to get the weight and viscosity correct and change it on time. I was just wondering more about what weight and viscosity to use because I have no experience with stroker motors at all. I just don't want to put 15w-40 in it and the oil pressure be too high, especially when I am still relying on the factory oil pressure gauge (for now).
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Old 04-16-2015, 02:57 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by yurizx6r
According to Rotella, they have over 1,400 parts per million of zinc in their 10w-30, which is more than most other regular and synthetic oils. VR1 is certainly a good oil, and you're correct when you say that may be the way to go, but I have not heard anything bad about Rotella yet. Why would you say not to use it?

I am not sure what the original builder put in it, but even if it was say Mobil 1 or whatever I'm swapping the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and front main seal anyways, so I should be good to go on using conventional for a while.
the new rotella T 15w-40 does not have 1400, it has 1200 and you certainly "can" use it but there is absolutely no specific point in doing so that i am aware of unless you are getting it for far less money that auto oil . . also, the new starburst rotella oil has far less.

also, using oils with high levels of zinc like over 1400 is bad for street engines and plenty of stock 5.0 engines are going 200,000 miles with oil that has around 800 zddp so zddp level is not the deciding factor in an oils anti wear capacity.

as far as oil pressure goes, high oil pressure wont hurt your engine.

the thicker the oil is, the more wear protection it provides . . you certainly could run 10w-30 instead of 15w-40 though, especially if you drive it in very cold weather. there is also no prob running 20w-50 oil because the oil is 20w, it is not 50 wt . . in other words, the 20w-50 will flow faster than straight 30, 40 or 50 wt when it is cold . . multi grade oils are basically oil that does not thin out as much as single wt oil when they are hot.
.

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Old 04-16-2015, 07:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by yurizx6r
IMHO most of the oils today are all pretty decent, but obviously some are much better than others. I think the key is to get the weight and viscosity correct and change it on time. I was just wondering more about what weight and viscosity to use because I have no experience with stroker motors at all. I just don't want to put 15w-40 in it and the oil pressure be too high, especially when I am still relying on the factory oil pressure gauge (for now).
you're overthinking this.......run 10w3o in it and move on.....your bearing clearances will determine where the pressure ends up......most likely your motor has clearances around .0015 to .020 max........so run 5w30-10w30........I run 10w30 and have no issues....there are more important things to worry about than this.
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Old 04-17-2015, 07:22 AM
  #54  
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That's my thought on it. I think 15w40 would be a bit much. They run 10w-30 from the factory and any car that goes into you local tire shop, no matter what it calls for. I'm just nervous about putting this thing in and it not working out again. I'm sure everything will be fine, but this is sort of my last shot. If it does not work, my car will be a roller for a while.
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Old 04-17-2015, 09:11 AM
  #55  
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JUST ROLLL WITH IT...YOU'LL BE FINE.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:22 AM
  #56  
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Lol, yeah I know. I have not shifted a car in so long I'm going crazy. lol Yes, me DD is................................................ ...an automatic (gasp)!!! I'm going to rip that old motor out, clean it up, sell it, put the new motor in, fill it with fluids, and start it no condom. No test, just all in baby. lol
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:55 AM
  #57  
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go or blow!!!! lol
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Old 04-17-2015, 04:04 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by yurizx6r
I'm going to rip that old motor out, clean it up, sell it, put the new motor in, fill it with fluids, and start it no condom. No test, just all in baby. lol
your old engine is worth much more money if someone can see it run and drive it.
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Old 04-17-2015, 04:06 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by yurizx6r
That's my thought on it. I think 15w40 would be a bit much.
why? . . its 15w, factories used to use 30w.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:32 AM
  #60  
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I'm sure I should make a new post for this, but just so I don't have to repost the engine specs... what spark plug gap do you guys usually run with on a stroker motor? I have a 6AL box, so I'm not that worried about it, but do I leave it stock at .50-.52?

I got the new motor in!! I cannot wait to start this thing. I'm hoping Saturday will be the start up day. This guy spent some serious money on this motor.

Last edited by yurizx6r; 04-23-2015 at 12:04 PM.
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