Block deck and straightedge question
#51
IMHO most of the oils today are all pretty decent, but obviously some are much better than others. I think the key is to get the weight and viscosity correct and change it on time. I was just wondering more about what weight and viscosity to use because I have no experience with stroker motors at all. I just don't want to put 15w-40 in it and the oil pressure be too high, especially when I am still relying on the factory oil pressure gauge (for now).
#52
According to Rotella, they have over 1,400 parts per million of zinc in their 10w-30, which is more than most other regular and synthetic oils. VR1 is certainly a good oil, and you're correct when you say that may be the way to go, but I have not heard anything bad about Rotella yet. Why would you say not to use it?
I am not sure what the original builder put in it, but even if it was say Mobil 1 or whatever I'm swapping the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and front main seal anyways, so I should be good to go on using conventional for a while.
I am not sure what the original builder put in it, but even if it was say Mobil 1 or whatever I'm swapping the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and front main seal anyways, so I should be good to go on using conventional for a while.
also, using oils with high levels of zinc like over 1400 is bad for street engines and plenty of stock 5.0 engines are going 200,000 miles with oil that has around 800 zddp so zddp level is not the deciding factor in an oils anti wear capacity.
as far as oil pressure goes, high oil pressure wont hurt your engine.
the thicker the oil is, the more wear protection it provides . . you certainly could run 10w-30 instead of 15w-40 though, especially if you drive it in very cold weather. there is also no prob running 20w-50 oil because the oil is 20w, it is not 50 wt . . in other words, the 20w-50 will flow faster than straight 30, 40 or 50 wt when it is cold . . multi grade oils are basically oil that does not thin out as much as single wt oil when they are hot.
.
Last edited by barnett468; 04-16-2015 at 03:44 PM.
#53
IMHO most of the oils today are all pretty decent, but obviously some are much better than others. I think the key is to get the weight and viscosity correct and change it on time. I was just wondering more about what weight and viscosity to use because I have no experience with stroker motors at all. I just don't want to put 15w-40 in it and the oil pressure be too high, especially when I am still relying on the factory oil pressure gauge (for now).
#54
That's my thought on it. I think 15w40 would be a bit much. They run 10w-30 from the factory and any car that goes into you local tire shop, no matter what it calls for. I'm just nervous about putting this thing in and it not working out again. I'm sure everything will be fine, but this is sort of my last shot. If it does not work, my car will be a roller for a while.
#56
Lol, yeah I know. I have not shifted a car in so long I'm going crazy. lol Yes, me DD is................................................ ...an automatic (gasp)!!! I'm going to rip that old motor out, clean it up, sell it, put the new motor in, fill it with fluids, and start it no condom. No test, just all in baby. lol
#58
#60
I'm sure I should make a new post for this, but just so I don't have to repost the engine specs... what spark plug gap do you guys usually run with on a stroker motor? I have a 6AL box, so I'm not that worried about it, but do I leave it stock at .50-.52?
I got the new motor in!! I cannot wait to start this thing. I'm hoping Saturday will be the start up day. This guy spent some serious money on this motor.
I got the new motor in!! I cannot wait to start this thing. I'm hoping Saturday will be the start up day. This guy spent some serious money on this motor.
Last edited by yurizx6r; 04-23-2015 at 12:04 PM.