5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Block deck and straightedge question

Old 04-23-2015, 06:22 PM
  #61  
mjr46
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I've run .045-.053........stock gap will be fine
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:52 PM
  #62  
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Thanks! I was thinking stock would be fine. Especially with the MSD box.
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Old 04-26-2015, 04:12 PM
  #63  
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Success!!!!!!!!! Got everything hooked up and installed! Fired it up and it sounds nasty!

A few draw backs though... rear main seal leaks (should have went with my gut and changed it while I had the chance) and it wants to die out if you let your foot off the gas too quickly. You have to push the gas slightly to get it to start and the idle will bob up and down from 1,500 to 400 OR just die, but if you push the gas and SLOWLY let your foot off adjust and stabilize the idle at 1,000. Then it's good and is decently stable at 1,000. I tried to unplug the IAC and it immediately died. I will try a base idle reset later, but I will not be near the car until late tomorrow. I have not tried to drive it yet because of the rear main seal leak. I do have a few questions.

What's the best rear main seal? Felpro has a teflon one for $40 at autozone and Ford Racing has a rubber one for $12. Which do I go with?
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:34 PM
  #64  
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ford racing viton seal and if you want a full proof method, install a seal saver on the crankshaft...it'll add extra tension against the seal and gauranteed never leak again........what type of maf are you using??
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Old 04-26-2015, 08:56 PM
  #65  
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...b302/overview/

^This one? If so I have two of them actually. I used this one before, but I'm not sure if it still seeped a little. It was hard to tell because my oil dip stick leaked too. I am not sure what you mean by the seal saver... could you elaborate a little? Do you have a link? I have never heard of this before.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:49 PM
  #66  
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watch this and yes the link you posted it the one I use:
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:18 AM
  #67  
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Sweet. Thanks! Oh and to answer your question earlier, I have a 73mm C&L MAF with the 30 lbl fuel injector calibration tube (with 30 lbl fuel injectors). I tried the base idle reset last night for an hour. I went back and forth between setting the TPS voltage between .80 and .98 and adjusting the idle set screw. I think I either have a tuning issue or a vacuum leak because every time I would think I would have it perfectly set to 1,000 I would shut the car off, turn it back on, and it would either stall out or the RPM's would go to 2,000 and I would have to readjust it again. It would either be too much air or to little air. It was acting like my wife.... didn't know what it wants.

I had to give up after an hour because of the mosquitos and time, but the good news is I checked over and over again and..............NO COOLANT IN MY OIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-27-2015, 06:46 AM
  #68  
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a lot of times I have found with c and l mafs you have to clock them just right to resolve such issues......which is one reason I often use PRO-M.
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Old 04-27-2015, 08:51 AM
  #69  
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It is on a slight angle, so I guess I should try putting it somewhere else, say back to how the factory would have it? I have the plug in side of the sensor facing up so rain water does not get into it. The cowl hood for some reason lets some water in and it will get on the sensor if I don't do that. Tonight I will try that and doing a boost leak test.
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:35 AM
  #70  
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try a few different positions, I can't remember which position worked best when I used a few...3 or 6 iirc??
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