Rear main oil seal
#1
Rear main oil seal
I'm replacing my clutch and am considering replacing the rear main oil seal. There is a little "wet" sign of oil seepage on the pan. Not sure if it's the rear main oil seal or pan. I bought a Fel-Pro seal but am a little nervous about replacing it Don't want to make it worse.
I don't want to go through removing the drive train again later either to just to replace a leaking real main seal.
Any "fool-proof" (I know this depends on the quality of the fool : ) ) advice gladly accepted.
Dan
I don't want to go through removing the drive train again later either to just to replace a leaking real main seal.
Any "fool-proof" (I know this depends on the quality of the fool : ) ) advice gladly accepted.
Dan
#3
I didn't think of the speedy sleeve.
I'm a little concerned about having a problem getting the old one out without messing something up. I have a lot of auto repair experience but haven't replaced a rear main seal in an engine that wasn't dissembled.
Thanks,
Dan
I'm a little concerned about having a problem getting the old one out without messing something up. I have a lot of auto repair experience but haven't replaced a rear main seal in an engine that wasn't dissembled.
Thanks,
Dan
#4
Pick up a “Shaft In Seal Puller" from your local autoparts store. Makes removing the seal extremely simple.
#5
you don't need any special tools...................all I ever use is lightly tap a flat blade screwdriver in between the seal and the block and pry it out...never have I damaged anything by doing it this way.
#6
I usually slide a large flatblade screwdriver between the shaft and seal and then pry against the EDGE of the shaft to pop the seal out. DO NOT pry on the shaft where the seal rides or it will leak. Id also be weary of prying against the block and gouging it.
#7
I would be wary of any prying around the housing and especially around the shaft. If you gouge the metal it will leak. Especially if you gouge the shaft. The tool I suggested eliminates any need for prying and the possibility of gouging the housing or crankshaft.
#9
It's Out!
Thanks everyone for the input. I did buy the Lisle tool but couldn't get it to work. I just couldn't seem to get it at the right angle for a good pry point. Tried the screw driver method and it worked great. The old seal seemed stiff (old) after removal. Probably original.
#10
Thanks everyone for the input. I did buy the Lisle tool but couldn't get it to work. I just couldn't seem to get it at the right angle for a good pry point. Tried the screw driver method and it worked great. The old seal seemed stiff (old) after removal. Probably original.