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Need advice on what Heads/Cam/Intake please!

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Old 05-26-2015, 08:31 PM
  #11  
burkeocet
 
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Ever consider GT40P heads off a 95+ ford explorer? Not really into the fox body stuff but I pulled a later year explorer 302 with the gt40p heads for my grand marquis. After carbing it and what not, it pulled hard as hell and ran 14's in a grand marquis. Ran even better with some trick flow stuff though
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:27 AM
  #12  
barnett468
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Originally Posted by 50jeff
Sounds like I need to do the trickflow if I go the package route from all the posts here and the other forums.
Not necessarily


Originally Posted by 50jeff
I like doing things right, so I'm always more likely to spend what it takes to do it right with quality parts.
Ok, if you like doing things "right", here's some "right" info for you. Out of the 50 or so replies you have received on all the different forums you posted this on including the "allmighty" corral forum, no one, including a "well known" engine builder, has mentioned that you must run near the highest compression you can for the octane gas you are running if you want to get the optimal performance out of your engine, and that many of the heads including the ones in the kit mentioned, have combustion chambers that are too large to achieve this.

Also, in general, it is best to run a piston to head clearance of around .036” - .042" inches to reduce the potential for detonation, and many engines have the piston around .016” below the block surface whether they are original or rebuilt. Well, the most common head gaskets are .041” thick when compressed with a massive bore size of 4.100, so when you add .041" to .016”, you get .057”. This will create a detonation friendly environment, especially if you simply mill the heads to increase the compression but do nothing to reduce this clearance.

There is a very simple cure for this but it is expensive. You can simply buy thinner head gaskets. Cometic makes them and they are around $92.00 a piece from summit racing, but since this will get you more horsepower and torque, you can try to rationalize the additional expense.

If you were to buy the trick flow heads and put them on an engine that was even already bored out .030” that had the pistons .016” below the block surface, your static compression would be around 9.02. Now, while this isn’t horrible, you could in fact run around 10.25 with those heads and that gearing. For example, if your engine was .030" over with flat top pistons with 2 valve reliefs and pistons .016” below the block and heads with 61 cc’s like the trick flow 170’s have, you could buy the Cometic head gaskets that are .027” thick with a bore of 4.030 and mill the heads to 54 cc’s to increase compression to around 10.22. 55 cc’s will make the compression a little less at around 10.9.

imo, I see little point to adding performance parts unless the engine is set up to get the most performance it can from them.


Originally Posted by 50jeff
In regards to the budget, nothing specific, but probably $2-4k. Honestly whatever it takes within reason to make "good" power for the street and stay somewhat of a "daily-driver". ...not trying to make it on the top-10 street outlaws list... Mine will also go on the highway some.
As far as the intake goes, I am a carburetor guy so I have very little opinion there other than for just a good strong runner, you do not need a fancy new $630.00 intake system. You could look into getting a 1995 thru early 1997 Exploder or Mountaineer intake and buy the upgrade parts for it like a big throttle body and slightly bigger injectors etc. When looking at 97 intakes, make sure they have the pcv valve provision. I don't know if pre 95 intakes will work. These intakes can be had for around $100.00 from the junk yard or maybe $150.00 from Ebay. You could also probably get the lower ported for maybe $300.00 if you wanted to go the extra mile.

Here's one on Ebay now but I dont know if it's right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1995-Fo...-/161715773651

Here's several more.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/gt40-intake


As far as the cam goes, I would look at an XE266HR with 1.6 rocker arms. This will go well with your heads and gears and what I perceive your goal to be. It will have a slightly noticeable, but not rowdy lope, and it will tun smooth from the bottom and pull strong from around 3,000 rpm to 5500. If you have a manual trans and you rev it up and dump the clutch, it will roast the bejesus out of the tires.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1056&sb=0

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...view/make/ford

or this cam with 1.7’s

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1059&sb=0


if you want a custom cam, below are a few very good cam guys.

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/street-cred/

http://www.straubtechnologies.com/

http://bulletcams.com/

Last edited by barnett468; 05-27-2015 at 04:00 AM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:30 AM
  #13  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by barnett468

Ok, if you like doing things "right", here's some "right" info for you. Out of the 50 or so replies you have received on all the different forums you posted this on including the "allmighty" corral forum, no one, including a "well known" engine builder, has mentioned that you must run near the highest compression you can for the octane gas you are running if you want to get the optimal performance out of your engine, and that many of the heads including the ones in the kit mentioned, have combustion chambers that are too large to achieve this.
"Right info"???? oh dear....nothing you posted comes even close to giving the op what he needs to live up to his goal.....his thread on the corral has the best info from those "who have done it" well under his posted budget and with the tfs 170 heads you claim to have to large of chambers to run decent.....FYI yours truly has run tfs tw heads on a 302 block with well under 9.5 compression with no power adder well into the 11 sec 1/4 mile range.....and shannon over on the corral has done it on gt-40 iron heads well into the 10's!! it's about the combo and no cam you posted will do that. The parts combo you listed of explorer/gt-40 junk and cam choices and whatever heads you recommended will produce a solid 240-250 rwhp......**** poor results....done it time and time again for people and the result is always the same.
Originally Posted by barnett468
Also, in general, it is best to run a piston to head clearance of around .036” - .042" inches to reduce the potential for detonation, and many engines have the piston around .016” below the block surface whether they are original or rebuilt. Well, the most common head gaskets are .041” thick when compressed with a massive bore size of 4.100, so when you add .041" to .016”, you get .057”. This will create a detonation friendly environment, especially if you simply mill the heads to increase the compression but do nothing to reduce this clearance.

There is a very simple cure for this but it is expensive. You can simply buy thinner head gaskets. Cometic makes them and they are around $92.00 a piece from summit racing, but since this will get you more horsepower and torque, you can try to rationalize the additional expense.
What on earth is all this excess info / jibberish about?? he stated in his first post he has a stock 93 5.0 in regards to power.....I think we can safely assume this is a stock 5.0 bore block.......not an aftermarket 8.2 dart.....so no need for a tangent on 4.100 bores.....don't confuse the poor chap!

YOU SAY:


Originally Posted by barnett468

As far as the intake goes, I am a carburetor guy so I have very little opinion there other than for just a good strong runner, you do not need a fancy new $630.00 intake system. You could look into getting a 1995 thru early 1997 Exploder or Mountaineer intake and buy the upgrade parts for it like a big throttle body and slightly bigger injectors etc. When looking at 97 intakes, make sure they have the pcv valve provision. I don't know if pre 95 intakes will work. These intakes can be had for around $100.00 from the junk yard or maybe $150.00 from Ebay. You could also probably get the lower ported for maybe $300.00 if you wanted to go the extra mile.

Here's one on Ebay now but I dont know if it's right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1995-Fo...-/161715773651

Here's several more.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/gt40-intake


As far as the cam goes, I would look at an XE266HR with 1.6 rocker arms. This will go well with your heads and gears and what I perceive your goal to be. It will have a slightly noticeable, but not rowdy lope, and it will tun smooth from the bottom and pull strong from around 3,000 rpm to 5500. If you have a manual trans and you rev it up and dump the clutch, it will roast the bejesus out of the tires.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1056&sb=0

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...view/make/ford

or this cam with 1.7’s

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1059&sb=0


if you want a custom cam, below are a few very good cam guys.
http://www.flowtechinduction.com/

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/street-cred/

http://www.straubtechnologies.com/

http://bulletcams.com/
HE SAYS:
Originally Posted by 50jeff

In regards to the budget, nothing specific, but probably $2-4k. , I like doing things right, so I'm always more likely to spend what it takes to do it right with quality parts.

Thanks again!

Now why on earth after reading what "he says" would any of us recommend the above budget junk that produce mediocre results??...... he's willing to spend some coin to do it "right" and explorer intakes and hr266 cams and using his current heads/e7 heads is certainly NOT "RIGHT"

Whom ever he gets heads from.......they should be set up with a stout yet durable valvetrain and light as possible.......Best bang for his buck...LSX valvetrain and they'll fit nicely on a set of tfs tw 170 heads and will match up nicely to a holley systemax 2 intake and with a little money spent on porting said intake by one Tmoss on the corral......that intake will deliver a good punch.......set the valve events up via a custom cam knowing he's using a stock 5.0 bottom end and with all the right supporting mods such as maf, exhaust, inj's and tb....it'll lay down an easy 320-340 rwhp after tune and still be in the 4k budget if he spends time sourcing the parts and the car with the right driver will knock down 11 sec et's.........Done variations of this combo plenty for people and lives up to the the claims. Besides, this thread is dead........let it go, it appears he has taken the wise advice and is now in talks with ED.

Last edited by mjr46; 05-27-2015 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:31 PM
  #14  
bluebeastsrt
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I agree with MJR. I don't see the point of mismatched parts and then leaving the most important part of the equation (Heads) completely out.
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Old 05-27-2015, 05:34 PM
  #15  
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I don't know if we'll ever see the OP again but here a dyno video of the TF170 top end kit. Not to shabby for a light fox body street car. Plenty of horsepower to go deep 12s and give a new coyote 5.0 a run for it's money.
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:47 PM
  #16  
mjr46
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Originally Posted by barnett468
.

You are simply making things up as you have done in the past which does not benefit anyone . . It is far better to stick to the facts . .
I post real world combos I have done with real world results.......I'm sorry you are incapable of building such with the stellar results I have had as well as you continue to discount and ignore my proof.....jealousy..lol.......all you ever post is what you read in a magazine and the same cam choice for every combo and derail every thread when you are proven wrong like the countless times I have done.
Originally Posted by barnett468
I did not post a cam with the intention of getting him into the 10’s since my interpretation of his comments below suggest that he does not want a 10 second car, but obviously you think he does.
And you post recomendations that'll produce a 13 sec ride......and think he'll want that?? heck I can do that with a bone stock 5.0 with no mods!!

Originally Posted by barnett468
Also, just because so and so runs x amount of time in the 1/8th or 1/4 mile is irrelevant to my point .
which shows how little and limited your knowledge is on et vs power needed to achieve such......suspension will only get you so far pal.






Originally Posted by barnett468
Your comment regarding this suggests to me that you have limited knowledge in this area. If you want to learn more about compression and the affects of quench/squish distance, you can find some good info on it online or perhaps call someone that is knowledgeable in this area like Mike Main from Cam Research or Chris Straub of Straub Technologies or Keith Kraft or Jon Kaase.
.
stop with the name drops....it only embarrasses you and your inability to make a point.................and every combo recommendation thread you have ever been involved in ALWAYS includes parts that when put together will barely hit the 12's...........which shows me your very very narrow mind and limited scope/ability to put together and build a power producing combo. THIS THREAD IS DONE......AS the OP has found the proper knowledge he needs to build the "right combo" on the Corral.


clearing up some more misinfo here:

Originally Posted by barnett468
.
in addition, a 5.0 has slightly low compression anyway and lots of people install gt40 heads that have even larger chambers than the ones they are removing in an attempt to increase power . . i personally have never seen lower compression increase power but i guess that maybe it does but i don't build high perf engines that way.
.
WRONG................^^^^^^^^^ E7'S HAVE A CLAIM OF 60-64CC CHAMBERS GT-40'S 60-63CC AND GT-40P'S- 58-61CC'S BUT ALL THIS could be negligable based on what one truly gets if you were to actually cc the chambers.

Last edited by mjr46; 05-27-2015 at 08:56 PM.
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