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Moates Quarterhorse vs local tuner

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Old 05-18-2015, 10:55 AM
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yurizx6r
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Default Moates Quarterhorse vs local tuner

Hey guys, as some of you I'm still battling to get my new 331 stroker motor perfect. After a few vacuum leaks, fuel pressure adjustments, base idle, and TPS adjustments I got it to the point where I can drive it around the neighborhood. When it's cold, the car is perfect. Idle likes to be at 1,000 but once it heats up, the idle becomes less predictable. When you come up to a stop sign the idle will either go to 1,000 or struggle a little bit then get to 1,000. It's also running rich when it gets hot. When it's cold it's at 13.8-14.5, but when it warms up it's in the 13's. When you cruise it's in the mid 13's.

Currently, I have a Bama chip (NOT FOR MUCH LONGER), and yes I can hear 64 bit screaming right now! lmao But I was wondering if quarter horse was the way to go or just let a local tuner mess with it.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:13 PM
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88 orangepeel notch
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If your done with the mods for now, I'd go with a local tune.

But being able to tweak and tune on your own if something changes down the road is a nice option also.

Do both, it's only money.........lol
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:16 PM
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I said that $4,000 ago. lmao My wife and wallet are starting to raise their eyebrows at me. lol I'm just trying to make sure it's the right one to go with and that it's worth the money.

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Old 05-19-2015, 08:39 AM
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Ohhh, if they JUST STARTED to raise they're eyebrows, you have another $4000 to go then..........your fine.

Trust me, I'm a marriage counselor on the side.
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:49 AM
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HAHAHAHA I have a degree in Psychology, so I'm with yah! See what has kept me breathing is the fact that she thinks I'm only 8-9,000 in this car.........the more realistic number is 17-18,000. lol I do all the finances in my house. lol When you stretch it over time you don't get noticed, but it's big purchases like this that raise the red flags.....and veins in their forehead. lmao
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Old 05-19-2015, 08:56 AM
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LOL, true story...
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:16 AM
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Let me ask you this though. The motor has 280 miles on it. Once I hit the 1,000 miles break in period how likely is it that the tune will change? Or could it be that the motor is broke in already? I'm not sure whether I should baby it, drive it normal, or do a few WOT pulls on this thing. I'm going to drive it for 800 miles then change the oil one last time, but besides that I'm not sure if I will need a retune or how to drive it.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:22 AM
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Tune shouldn't change, and with 280 miles on it, your rings were already seated before you left your driveway after initial startup. Roller cams don't require any break in.

Let her rip.

After reading this thread again, I'd pull that chip out and let the factory settings adjust accordingly. The stock computer is quite adaptive. I've never had my car tuned with my setup, and the factory computer holds my AFRs spot on in all driving conditions. Driveability is very good. I do run an older Anderson PMS for tuning, but I've never "needed" to adjust anything to get it to run better.

I did recently develop an slight idle surge after I replaced my valve seals. My display for the PMS shows an erratic TPS readings while driving so I'm going to start there.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:47 AM
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Interesting, because when I set it to setting "4" aka the factory tune, it does not want to start.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:43 PM
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So I did a few pulls tonight!!! I drove the car for 20 miles and did a number of WOT pulls with a bunch of minor/mild pulls too. The car ran perfect with no idle issues at all!!! It started up great and went to each stop sign with no trouble what soever. I drove it 4 miles to the gas station and filled up, no problems. It coasted at at 14.3-15.0 and it idled between 14.2-14.8, and if you took off normal it would 13.2-14.0. WOT pulls were low 12's.

Here's the thing, before when I told you it was coasting rich around 13.8 +/- .5 it was on performance mode. Before I did the pulls, I noticed that and set it to street mode on the Bama chip. Performance mode I guess runs slightly richer.

Then.....something happened. I was dropping my buddy off and letting the car idle after all the pulls when we noticed that it started leaning out at 16.2-17.0 at idle, so I shut the car off wiggled the injectors and turned it back on. It went to 14.5, but crept back up to 16.2-17.0. So I immediately tried to get it home when it stalled and made an f'd up noise. I'm not sure if I accidentally hit my kill switch (aka my 6AL2 "fog light" kill switch)or it was the car. Either way it didn't want to start at first, but after a two minutes of sitting it turned right on. I drove it home and it was coasting in the 15's and low 16's a few times, and normal take offs were either 13.8 or in the high 14's. I'm let the car sit overnight.

This morning I checked the headers and every bolt was still tight, valve cover bolts were still tight, and the oil was still oil (not milkshake).

Thoughts? I find it strange that now I don't have a surging idle issue and it is no longer running rich. Perhaps the computer just need time to figure the build up and over compensated yesterday with all the pulls? Although I did not check the fuel pressure with the vacuum line off yesterday when I was stalled out, it was still reading 34ish with the vacuum line on and the car off (I noticed it within 1-2 minutes after pulling over).

Last edited by yurizx6r; 05-20-2015 at 07:13 AM.
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