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5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
correct, EGR has been deleted! Just to get everyone helping up to speed this is what weve done so far:
compression test 125 all 8 cyl.
noid test, all 8 injectors pulsing
new plugs, wires, cap rotor,
does have a motorcraft used distributor after my msd 8456 pip went. motorcraft in it now.
MAF clean, o2 sensors (bosch), TPS, ECT, timing set, disconnect fuel management unit, no change, FPR holding 40 psi.
hold it... did the issues start after the dizzy swap? if so did you wire the firing order for HO or non HO 302? the incorrect firing order will cause this as well. most aftermarket cams run the HO firing order
that is the correct order I have. the car ran perfect after the switch of dizzy's. The only thing that happened before this issue was I blew a pulley clean off the power steering pump. it was a replacement plastic one I never got to change out. After I replaced it with an aluminum pulley the issues started after that. I didn't overheat the motor because pully blew right at shop. literally that day after installing new pullet ran crappy. studdering and running rich. I did find #4 cylinder spark plug wire smoke from resting on BBK header. replaced all of the wires, cap , and rotor like I said. no change and seems to be getting worse the more I diagnose it. I did notice when on the throttle it would come in and out of the studdering, but quickly. like studder, smooth, studder, studder, smooth. but now all studder and smoke/rich.
+1 ^^^ good point. But a blown pulley wouldn't cause a timing jump. Did the pulley come apart and take out a connection, cut a wire ?
Sorry, but I can't get over the 24's running 9's. The power needed to run those times can in no way be made with 24lbs injectors. The pistons would melt before the 1/8. Actually they'd be done in the water box. Now, I mean no disrespect, and I love the look of your Notch, except for the use of screws on street tires, but I'm just curious as this has never been done before.
Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; 08-04-2015 at 08:46 AM.
It's funny you say that. I did find that the pulley did cut the alternator wire throwing the amp light... fixed that. I did chase most of the wires: salt and peppershakers, wires behind the power steering fusable links and looked under whole car on lift. cant seem to finds anything but maybe I'm looking in the wrong place! What wire would cause it to run like this al of a sudden.
Orangepeel. These numbers and dyno specs are all from previous owner. I bought it from a well known street strip guy out of NY called Puerto rican boys. This car is new to me and I have owned over 20 mustangs from 240 hp to 700 hp. This car is definatley a 9 second car with slicks dialed in the way I bought it. I did remove the 150 shot of coyote nitrous kit and reduced the psi on charger. I also personally put 24lb ford motorsport injectors in it by advice from a race shop here. I wanna say it had injector dynamic injectors ( not sure on size) when I got it but I wanted to tame it down for street use more. I also cannot run it here without a cage at those times.
Ahh, I understand now, thanks for the explanation.
As for the wire, I wouldn't know. Maybe the harness coming off the TFI module on the dizzy, who knows where the chunks flew lol.
I'd personally see if you can pull codes using the paper clip method and counting the flashes. If you can't pull codes, maybe the ECM took some stray voltage when the alt. wire was hit and fryed something inside. Kinda a can of worms right now as I'm sure your aware.
Keep us updated
Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; 08-04-2015 at 06:43 PM.
08-03-2015, 07:57 PM
