No start, Code 118
#1
No start, Code 118.. Updated. Spark issue
I replaced my ECT with a Motorcraft unit earlier this year due to some hard starting and trouble codes that pointed me in that direction. Well I'm back to the hard cold starts and today couldn't get it to start at all. It just turns over. KOEO code was 118 as of yesterday when it did start after several attempts. Any insight would be appreciated.
Last edited by 94Blk5.0; 11-20-2015 at 08:51 PM. Reason: Updated
#2
I don't think a faulty ECT sensor will cause a "no start" situation. Might not run the best, but it should fire right up and drive if needed.
We need to find out what's missing on these no starts. Fuel or spark ?
You could test the ECT sensor just to make sure that's within spec's. Just to verify the code.
We need to find out what's missing on these no starts. Fuel or spark ?
You could test the ECT sensor just to make sure that's within spec's. Just to verify the code.
Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; 11-13-2015 at 07:14 AM.
#3
I don't think a faulty ECT sensor will cause a "no start" situation. Might not run the best, but it should fire right up and drive if needed.
We need to find out what's missing on these no starts. Fuel or spark ?
You could test the ECT sensor just to make sure that's within spec's. Just to verify the code.
We need to find out what's missing on these no starts. Fuel or spark ?
You could test the ECT sensor just to make sure that's within spec's. Just to verify the code.
Would it be possible to fry the ECT or PCM by reserving the ECT wires?
#5
Doubt hooking it up backwards would hurt anything. Its just a thermister. You might have something not making good contact that expands once car starts. Check the salt and pepper shakers as they are a common issue.
I would say weak starter or battery but if it spins over those are fine.
I would say weak starter or battery but if it spins over those are fine.
#6
Thanks guys.. A few updates: I ended up getting a spark tester and found I was getting no spark at the coil. Ended up being a ICM. I have yet to check for codes after getting it running yesterday. It has cut off on me twice while driving down the road since the new ICM, and once about a week ago on the original ICM. No sputter just a zero'd out tach. It will start back up though.
It also now has a rolling idle, hadn't had time to look into that yet.
Still not sure if the ECT (Motorcraft part where you splice into the wiring system) is wired correctly, hopefully codes will tell me more. Good news is I used bullet connector, so it a plug and play experiment.
It also now has a rolling idle, hadn't had time to look into that yet.
Still not sure if the ECT (Motorcraft part where you splice into the wiring system) is wired correctly, hopefully codes will tell me more. Good news is I used bullet connector, so it a plug and play experiment.
Last edited by 94Blk5.0; 11-20-2015 at 12:12 PM.
#7
Second update.. Went to leave work and it would not start. Jumper cables did not make a difference either. Spark tester registers one weak spark when initially turned over but no more.. Any ideas? Off to the second job then I will go look at it again.
Last edited by 94Blk5.0; 11-20-2015 at 05:14 PM.
#8
Id suggest using motorcraft ignition parts. The TFIs, especially the dizzy mount ones on the foxes, are known to only work correctly if the OE one is used. Aftermarket ones fail.
Also check the PIP in your dizzy to make sure its not loose or touching the hall effect wheel.
Also check the PIP in your dizzy to make sure its not loose or touching the hall effect wheel.