jterr

94 5.0 codes were 334, 172, 176, 332, 210.
Was told to check for sticking, plugged EGR valve. Took off was not very dirty; moved the red thing and it seemed free.
Put back together ran great for about 30 mins then went back to what I call Hic cuping- tries to cut off but doesn't. Tach drops when this occurs, does it under full throttle or just crusing. May stop for abit then start again..
I'm lost what do I need to check now????

88 orangepeel notch

May have to just replace the EGR.

The other codes (172 & 176) were for lean O2's, but that might be related to a bad EGR screwing things up.

mjr46

if car does not run rough at idle egr isn't screwing things up most likely......lean codes.....I'd search for a vac leak.....and you could of tested egr functionality with a simple hand held vac tester......apply vac to it and see if it makes car run rough or stall out.....if you don't have a tester...hook direct manifold vac to it for a brief second to test valve/system capability.

jterr

Kinda has a lope to it at idle, been doing that as long as I've had it

mjr46

is the cam stock?

jterr

Not sure..

Boss_Hotrod

If the EGR was leaking the car should have more than just a lope to it. It would look like it was misfiring (shaking badly). If the EGR leak is bad enough the car will stall out since the car is not tuned (or designed to) for an EGR to be active at idle.

tomcamaro97

does it have the same "lope" in gear vs park? my car does the same thing... however only when in park, if you have the same thing as me , its not a cam doing it.

jterr

OK Update- Took off upper intake replaced 2 hoses that were broken off underneith. After test run seemed better , but still doing same thing. Found the yellow plastic hose going to egr was broken- repaired still same.
I guess next would be egr or the connector on it..
Thoughts