americanfisher93

I've replaced and done alot of work on my 95 5.0, and my main problem is ignition timing, so i unplug the spout, I know it calls for 10 btdc which it won't run because of the cam and other aftermarket parts. So I bumped it up to about 17 btdc with the spout dissconnected, and it runs good. Idles great, sounds great, and will rev to 5.5k or so. As soon as I plug the spout back in it wants to die, and when you try to rev it up it revs to about 2.7k and acts like its hitting a rev limiter. It has not had a tune done yet and that may be the problem, but I'm afraid to drive it with no spout in for risk or pre ignition or detonation.

new oe forged rotating assembly, trick flow stage 1 cam, 1.6 aluminum rr, gt40x aluminum heads, longtime headers, accel new dizzy with plugs and wires, 24lb injectors with a new maf with it. Let me know if more info is needed.

64bit

Put your timing back to 10°BTDC where it belongs.

americanfisher93

It won't run at 10 degrees, I've tried that. Any more ideas?

64bit

if it wont run at 10, youve got serious issues. Your balancer might have slipped.

Or numerous other problems... like vac leaks, fuel pressure being wrong, etc

americanfisher93

As I stated it will not run at stock 10 degrees due to the fact that I have changed the internals of the engine.

64bit

Want to tell me another funny story?

your internals have NOTHING to do with it not running with the SPOUT out at 10*BTDC. So, as I stated before... you need to see if your balancer has spun (since its a common failure). You also need to look for vac leaks, and see if youre running too rich or too lean

americanfisher93

That crank spinning is a possibilty. Or at least the pointer to the crank may have shifted some and what not. My issue is that once I find a good base time. Then once I plug the spout in it runs rough again. As far as vacuum leaks I've sprayed and not found any, I also have a vacuum gauge, and for my cam setup and everything seems to be pretty good, it jumps from about 12-14 or so at idle.