MacSerio

I recently burned my smog pump after its bearings seized so I put a new one on and the car ran good and idled steady. However I saw that the small pipe that connects to the exhaust was not connected so I connected it and now the car has a bad idle and almost stalls at times. What could be the issue here? Why would this pipe being connected caused idle to stumble? Thanks for the input in advance.

64bit

Disconnect the vac line to the top of the EGR. See if it runs better.

The vac lines are probably run wrong

MacSerio

No it has no vacuum at that tube. As far as codes go, it's 44 and 94 when cold and 94 and 44 when hot. Vacuum lines are routed correctly.

dawson1112

Are all your check valves in place and functioning properly? Along with the Air diverter valve and air bypass valve? You could have a bad or missing check valve between the exhaust and diverter valve, forcing spent exhaust through the diverter into the heads and back into the air pump. Could even be why you burnt up the old pump.

MacSerio

The valves are there but how would I check them without a vacuum pump? The valve closest to the solenoid, or the second valve from the air pump, had a melted vacuum line so I replaced it and now there is only a code 94. It idles a bit better but not like it did when I had that pipe underneath disconnected.
Fyi the old pump seized be cause I washed it and it ruined the bearings.

dawson1112

Disconnect the line on the pump side of the check valve , start the car and see if its blowing exhaust out the pump side of the valve.

MacSerio

Burnt plastic from the old air pump clogged both valves and now I wonder if plastic got into the heads and engine. But after unclogging I checked and there is minimal air coming out of the air pump side of the second valve. Should it be completely sealed? Also I found a spark plug had been burnt somehow and the porcelain separated from the metal. One thing after another. Just rebuilt this but it's all stock.

dawson1112

Could still be some crap in the check valves, and probly the air diverter as well. Once you get all the crap out of the check valves they should seal up pretty tight, they are designed to stop exhaust gasses from returning to the air pump. Lol if you weren't in cali id tell you to scrap the entire secondary air injection system all together. Id say you misfire was most likely you faulty spark plug though.

MacSerio

Well I just put in a new plug n the idle is a lot smoother it won't stay steady like before. I got out all the crud I could get, it was mostly solid pieces that I got out but like I said there is a bit of air coming out of the valve. Could it have melted in there too? Those things are over a hundred bucks! Everything happened at once, the plug, the pump, the valves, but ignition on the dizzy was the first to go. Then the pump seized n all hell followed I guess. Yea smog laws are a PITA!

MacSerio

Good news is tho, No More Codes! Maybe the idle will even out after driving a bit? The car did slightly overheat when the pump seized but I pulled over before it got too hot, yet I know that the ect can cause idle issues after an overheat due to contamination, so I may need to flush my cooling system because it's running a bit colder ever since it happened. It's about a notch below halfway.