Moates Quarter Horse Tuning
#1
Moates Quarter Horse Tuning
Anyone use this before? The last time I was at my local performance shop, the foxbody guy there highly recommended it. I'm stuck with $hitty Bama tuning right now...although my car runs well, the emissions were way off and I had to get it on a dyno to tweak it just to pass. The only thing I'm worried about is doing the tuning myself. I have no experience with that stuff. All I know is you can get Binary editor and start tuning on your laptop.
#2
Could you list your mods ?
The stock ECM does a pretty good job of adapting to mods and keeping the motor happy. If it is running poorly and not passing emissions, I'd look into a sensor that's out of tolerance or a vacuum leak before spending that cash on a tuner.
Good luck
Edit: Maybe I should explain that alittle better. When I first bought my car, it was an eye burner when I got it. All mods where already done and it drove and ran pretty good. Just don't open the windows or you'd get a headache in 10 minutes while you wiped away tears from the exhaust. Just standing behind the car while it was running wasn't advised....
I gave it a complete tune up, fixed 2 bad vacuum lines and replaced the ECT sensor. That made a night and day difference. I installed a wideband and picked up an Anderson PMS for tuning. Surprisingly the car needed just a touch less fuel at idle, other than that, the stock computer maintained perfect AFR at all throttle settings. I didn't have to do anything to make it run cleaner or better.
The stock ECM does a pretty good job of adapting to mods and keeping the motor happy. If it is running poorly and not passing emissions, I'd look into a sensor that's out of tolerance or a vacuum leak before spending that cash on a tuner.
Good luck
Edit: Maybe I should explain that alittle better. When I first bought my car, it was an eye burner when I got it. All mods where already done and it drove and ran pretty good. Just don't open the windows or you'd get a headache in 10 minutes while you wiped away tears from the exhaust. Just standing behind the car while it was running wasn't advised....
I gave it a complete tune up, fixed 2 bad vacuum lines and replaced the ECT sensor. That made a night and day difference. I installed a wideband and picked up an Anderson PMS for tuning. Surprisingly the car needed just a touch less fuel at idle, other than that, the stock computer maintained perfect AFR at all throttle settings. I didn't have to do anything to make it run cleaner or better.
Last edited by 88 orangepeel notch; 10-14-2016 at 07:22 AM.
#3
Right now I have a GT40 upper and lower, 70mm TB w/ matching EGR spacer, stock MAF, 19lb injectors, cold air intake, MAC shorty headers, BBK H-pipe w/ cats, and Flowmasters... and other goodies not associated with the engine. I do plan on heads and cam in maybe within a year but I need to get all the parts, and it's a lot of money. That's why I wonder if I'll still benefit right now from the quarter horse because I know I'm running a little rich and something tells me that my car has more potential right now but is being held back by the Bama tuning. Then really get results with the heads and cam w/ tuning which are going to be trick flow twisted wedge heads and either trick flow stage 1 or 2 cam.
#4
I'd definitely stick with the stock computer right now. Your mods are no where near the limits of it's capabilities. It really does a great job of adapting to mods. But that's only the case as long as the motor is maintained, ......... no codes, no vacuum leaks, sensors and switches in spec, etc, etc.
Even with the heads and cam you'll still be ok. Now a tune will get every last hp out of your setup, and maybe improve driveability. But that's where you'll make the decision if it's worth it at that point. I'd say save your money.
Even with the heads and cam you'll still be ok. Now a tune will get every last hp out of your setup, and maybe improve driveability. But that's where you'll make the decision if it's worth it at that point. I'd say save your money.
#5
Okay thanks man. It's just that when I first ran my car with the new upper and lower intake w/ larger TB on the computer's stock program, it ran poorly (at 10 degrees timing), so once I ran it with the mail order tune from BAMA it ran fine. Although, currently it can't pass emissions with the tune.
Last edited by UltraBlue91'; 10-17-2016 at 09:53 PM.
#6
Totally understandable, did you put some miles on that setup after completion ? Usually takes the computer 15-20 miles of varying conditions to adapt itself.
Since the intake swap, have you checked for vacuum leaks, making sure the lower intake isn't sucking air from a poorly sealing gasket ?
I'd also pull codes to see if the ECM is seeing something out of spec.
Since the intake swap, have you checked for vacuum leaks, making sure the lower intake isn't sucking air from a poorly sealing gasket ?
I'd also pull codes to see if the ECM is seeing something out of spec.
#8
Yes mileage was put on it after the new intake. I haven't really thoroughly searched for vacuum leaks but I will. I was just thinking what rmodel65 said about ditching the tune and bumping up to 14 degrees....I'm going to experiment with that. BTW, MAF is clean and O2 sensors are brand new,...had code 33 about the EGR valve not working properly. Took it off it and noticed a torn up gasket. New gasket and put it back together and it runs the same. Didn't check to see if the code went away so I'll double check it but it doesn't worry me. I'll keep anyone who's following this posted.
#9
Pulling the chip is good advice, because all it's really basically doing is bumping the timing up.
And the EGR can cause some driveability issues like you described. If your keeping it, make sure it's working properly.
Good luck
And the EGR can cause some driveability issues like you described. If your keeping it, make sure it's working properly.
Good luck