5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Head work

Old 11-23-2016, 12:22 AM
  #1  
06cumminsman
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Default Head work

I bought a 5.0 last night, and thought the timing was off since the guy just dropped a new distributor in it when he did some upgrades. It has GT40 3 bar heads, GT40 upper and lower, new timing chain, new distributor, F cam. I got home and found the distributor was not set right, so I retimed it with a light after setting the distributor with #1 at TDC. Car still missed bad, pulled valve covers and found #7 rockers not attached. Then I found one of the pushrods was bent bad. I pulled the head and there's minimal scaring on top of piston but everything looks good. To order new pushrods, can I measure the old one that is not bent someway or do I need to get a pushrod checker first? I don't know what length rods are in it, but there are no issues with the other cylinders so I think the bent rod is from running the car with the timing out causing the valves to hit.
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Old 11-23-2016, 06:56 AM
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88 orangepeel notch
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Buying someone else's headache can be a real can of worms lol.

Hard to say on the cause of the bent pushrod. Who knows if it was from improper installation or the PO testing the rev limiter in neutral. If only one was bent, I'd think the cam timing is ok as there would alot more bent rods.

Your going to have to pull timing cover to verify timing marks though.

Just out of curiosity, did you pull the timing spout when you set timing ?
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Old 11-23-2016, 07:43 AM
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Timing spout? I'm lost on what you mean there. First time into a 302, been building diesels for the last 8 years and just getting back into gas engines. I set piston at tdc, lined up distributor, then after firing up set the mark on balancer just inside the little peep hole. Had 2 mechanics shops and a friend who has owned 10 or more mustangs and built 3 verify.
I thought of pulling the front cover, but wasn't sure if I needed to after seeing the distributor not in right and then finding the bent rods
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Old 11-23-2016, 10:18 AM
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mongolchuck
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Many places sell adjustable pushrods to measure correct length. It should be a stock length but if the heads have been milled or the block decked the pushrods would be differrent. You could just pull another off of a different cylinder but your safest bet is an adjustable. It's usually easier and more economical to buy all 16 anyway.
https://lmr.com/item/TFS-9000/Trick-Flow-Adjustable-Pushrod-Length-Checking-Tool
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Old 11-23-2016, 10:31 AM
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06cumminsman
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I was planning to buy a new full set. My dial caliper goes up to just over 6". To the line where bottom ball starts was fully extended so I'm figuring 6.28 or 6.30 length. Might have a saving grace of a friend who has stock ones laying around so I can get up and driving until I get the rod to measure length needed and order a set that'll be perfect. I asked the guy I got it from and he doesn't have a clue so I'm thinking he bought the car built, and after he put timing chain and distributor on coukdn't get it running right so he sold it. He did tell me he's never put a distributor in before so I doubt he did cam and heads to the car, valve covers, water pump, distributor, timing chain were all new I know.
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:13 AM
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mongolchuck
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Stock length is right at 6.27 I believe so they probably are stock. Hydraulic lifters are also more forgiving of slight discrepancies but it's always good to check.
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Old 11-23-2016, 12:18 PM
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That's good. I still want to get the most and make it last a while.
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:04 PM
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I could not sleep till I had a look @ the cap on that connecting rod cap.
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