Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
#1
Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
Hey, I just picked up this car and pulled the timing back from more than 30 (couldn't even be read!) down to 10 for now. I also did plugs/wires/oil/coolant etc etc beforehand. After pulling the timing back from a rediculous level to what it should be, while the car is cold it runs alright, but when it warms up (im assuming warm based on driving time, temp gauge doesn't work), the car vibrates a whole bunch, has a huge power loss, and sounds alot choppier. In addition, I hear a slight ticking coming out of the exhaust. Ideas/suggestions? Thanks.
#2
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
my best bet is that the disty NAD to be that far because the previous abuser installed the disty off-kilter...
go through the proper timing steps and remove the disty. Make sure its lined up properly
go through the proper timing steps and remove the disty. Make sure its lined up properly
#4
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
definitely possible, when i got the car the dist bolt wasnt even tight so who knows how much it could have jumped :/ i'll see if i can grab some big lights to take a look at it tonight, thanks for the replies
#5
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
what do you mean by a tooth off? i brought the crank to TDC and checked to see where the rotor was and it was at #1 and the firing order is correct, i thought if anything was off the car wouldn't run... the car runs perfectly fine and pulls great up until it warms up, and it doesn't happen everytime, even if it was timing wouldn't it have to be a constant problem? my guess is leaning more towards MAS or o2 sensor, something electrical messing up moreso than something mechanical
also, what should fuel pressure be at idle? mines at 30 PSI according to the gauge thats in the car, the previous owner put a fuel pump in but i didn't see a regulator in anywhere, and it smells like fuel when its running (and 30psi is around normal i think) so that too leads me to believe o2 sensor because if it's not being read/not cycling the ecu dumps fuel. thoughts?
also, what should fuel pressure be at idle? mines at 30 PSI according to the gauge thats in the car, the previous owner put a fuel pump in but i didn't see a regulator in anywhere, and it smells like fuel when its running (and 30psi is around normal i think) so that too leads me to believe o2 sensor because if it's not being read/not cycling the ecu dumps fuel. thoughts?
#7
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
I've been trying to find someone in my area with an OBDI reader but have been unsuccessful so far The CEL was on and off for a while, hasn't been around in a bit but it's possible whatever it was for took a crap at the same time I was working on the car.
#8
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
I believe that your fuel pressure should be up a little bit also. When I asked where mine should be at I was told somewhere in the range of 38-42. Could be wrong though....
#9
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
ORIGINAL: 88BlueGT
I believe that your fuel pressure should be up a little bit also. When I asked where mine should be at I was told somewhere in the range of 38-42. Could be wrong though....
I believe that your fuel pressure should be up a little bit also. When I asked where mine should be at I was told somewhere in the range of 38-42. Could be wrong though....
#10
RE: Car shaking/vibrating and loss of power
ORIGINAL: ColdAudio
I've been trying to find someone in my area with an OBDI reader but have been unsuccessful so far The CEL was on and off for a while, hasn't been around in a bit but it's possible whatever it was for took a crap at the same time I was working on the car.
I've been trying to find someone in my area with an OBDI reader but have been unsuccessful so far The CEL was on and off for a while, hasn't been around in a bit but it's possible whatever it was for took a crap at the same time I was working on the car.
find your EEC connector
get access to it and look for the GRAY connector with a single wire
Pull this connector out of the cluster and insert a wire. run that wire to a negative source.... (ground)
hop in the car and turn the key to the ON position and watch the way the CEL blinks
here is a good write up on how to read the codes from PerformanceProbe.com
(keep in mind the steps on this page are for a probe, the codes will be different. use this only to referance HOW to read the CEL blinks)
post what you find as far as the codes go, and we will let you know what they mean