5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Not the Alternator!

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Old 01-29-2004, 07:07 PM
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Ormist
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Hello agian, I had a post about my car sounding sick on my last trip home and sometimes when i would stop at a stoplight the battery gauge and the tachometer would start moveing up and down. Then a few days later when itried starting my car (First time I have tried since the trip) the car jusct clicked (Dead battery).Someone told me it could be the alternator so i took it down to Advanced Auto Parts and cheched it and it was still good. Someone else told me it could be ther ground wires which I havent changes yet but before I do that I have a question. My care is a 89 GT I dont know when the battery was changed last, it could be the original battery for all I know. So I was woundering if the battery is dieing could that alone be the reason why my tach and battery gauge did that?
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:11 PM
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vfast
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well why didn't have them charge your battery while you were there and they could had put a load on it.all free..I love free...but I'm think something else is going on<edited><editID>vfast</editID><editDate>38015.7163657407</editDate></edited>
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:16 PM
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Ormist
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Put a load on it??? I am chargeing my battery right now actualy...
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:20 PM
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vfast
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yes advance and auto zone can put a load on it to see if it has a weak or dead cell. when you replace it get one with the most amps avl.<img border="0" src=smileys/smiley2.gif border="0">
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:54 PM
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horatio102
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Default Not the Alternator!

right. get the battery load checked - dad's regal was 100% fine when we went to a party, but when we went to leave it wouldn't start. Jump started it and it ran fine, got home, wouldn't start. So I pulled the battery out and got it load tested. Dead cell. Good enough to drive with, not good enough to start anymore. 99 Regal. happened in 03. new battery, runs like a champ.

Also, if you've had any engine work done recently, make sure the block-to-chassis ground strap is still intact. Mechanics seem to like forgetting to reattach that one.
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Old 01-29-2004, 07:57 PM
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mkspeed26
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you probably dont have a battery tester, so take it to advanced or something, like the others said. </P>
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Old 01-29-2004, 09:22 PM
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Alrighty, well I just got back from Advanced Auto Parts and my battery is undenyably dead. SoI was planing to change my battery wire just because I need a bigger one to a 4 gauge, and was woundering whats battery I should get, I mean is there just a standard battery or what.... I had a 580 (amp?) but Advanced Auto Parts said the standard for my car is 550 and Auto Zone said 580!!<edited><editID>Ormist</editID><editDate>38015.8103009259</editDate></edited>
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Old 01-29-2004, 10:21 PM
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horatio102
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get the biggest fattest battery you can. Optima red top is good but expensive. My truck has a gel-cel interstate or something, whatever it was at Schuck's.
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Old 01-30-2004, 04:25 AM
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TheGmKiller331
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I just bought a new DIEHARD battery for my stang.I was running an autozone cheapy that i threw in my winter beater.My old one had 540 cold cranking amps,and 650 reserved.My new one has 650 cold cranking amps,and 800 reserved.It spins it over quick as hell!And the best is i only paid 20 buck new.I have a friend that hooked me up while he was working.<IMG src=smileys/smiley2.gif border="0">
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