Sidewayz6.0

StangLX2002 has been nice enough to put this together. Your input is appreciated!! Thanks!!


Mass Air Flow Conversion, From Black Snake and Schwindty

Fox body 5 lug conversion, by Stangpower96

Engine Map(Location of Parts), by Bobby

first mods (getting started), link provided by mustang4eva

TPS Adjustment, from 50Trippin

5.0 Injection Size / Color, by Sidewayz6.0

Speedometer Recalibration Gear

speedometer gear swap DIY, provided by gspfunk

94/95 V8 swap with 5 speed transmission, by Low_5.0

calibration chart for C&L meters, provided by vfart

battery relocation made easy, by Quik

head porting, links provided by fats429

how to clean your injectors, link provided by 1990mustanggt

autobody101, link provided by 91lxstang

AOD to T-5 swap, link provided by ricepatrol

calcualting proper size injectors, by gspfunk

interchangeable fox body parts list, courtesy of creepshow

billet quadrant, firewall adjuster and adjustable cable installation, by gspfunk

tons of info on lifters and valve springs, courtesy of Grimace5.0

Wheel Spacing Chart

adjust your timing, with help by 88BlueGT

3g alternator install, by gspfunk

info on speed density, by Twister

tunning EFI, thanks to 88BlueGT

HC_CrAzYHoRsE

anybody who wants to write their own article and/or provide links that may be useful for others and/or would like to add something to the articles above, please post it in this thread and i will update the list.

thank you, your help is greatly appreciated.

Martin

7upedition

Heres a good bit of info on ignition boxes and systems: Courtesy of LoneStarMustangs

There are numerous ignition sytems available that say they give you "X" horsepower gain, or do this or that for your engine. In most cases the ignition unit will benefit your engine, but is it needed? To decide if adding an upgraded ignition system to your vehicle is going to be worthwhile you need to ask yourself a few simple questions:

1) Am I trying to get maximum spark energy, engine efficiency, lowered emissions, and power output from my engine?
2) Am I modifying the engine (cams, head porting, exhaust system, larger carbs/injectors, compression, or any other assortment of aftermarket performance parts) so that cylinder pressures will be increased?
3) Am I adding a serious power adder (Nitrous, Supercharger, Turbocharger, etc)?
4) Am I planning on racing the vehicle?
5) Am I increasing the RPM range of the engine?

If you answered YES to even one of the questions above you could consider the addition of one of the available ignition systems on the market. If you answered YES to 2 or more of the above questions, you'd better install a quality ignition amplifier (Mallory Hyfire, Holley Annihilator, Crane Hi-6, MSD, etc).

There is going to be B.S, from many ignition manufacturers, and the facts surrounding what an ignition unit can really do.

Some Facts:

1) A small power increase and strides in efficiency will be seen in most cases. (Note that if you are racing, not having a good ignition system can cause serious power loss and engine damage if the air/fuel mixture is not ignited properly. Without the correct or adequate coil the ignition system cannot do its job properly.
2) Analog ignition systems are slow and not as good as digital units
3) Opening up your plug gaps just because you have added an amplifier CAN SLOW YOU DOWN and cost your horsepower.
4) Not all ignition units are the same (Inductive amplifier and Capacitive Discharge amplifier, not to mention brands)
5) If it takes 10k volts to fire your spark plug, that is what you will get. Just because you have a bazillion volt system does not mean the box will give that to your plugs and combustion process. Don't believe that just because the ignition has the highest "millijoule" rating that it is the best.
Using the wrong coil can have serious implications (coils overheat, boil over, and catch the vehicle on fire because the coil could not handle what the box was telling it to do).
6) Not all ignition triggers are equal (breaker point, magnetic, magnetic breakerless, hall effect, photo optic, etc). Each can affect the efficiency of your ignition unit.

Some Hype:

A) "Guaranteed horsepower claims"
B) "Our amplifiers will help ALL vehicles"
C) "It will work with any coil" (this usually means that their unit does "squat"). Remember, the coil is the workhorse and the box is managing the coil.
D) "You can now increase the spark gap for better performance". This usually means again that their box does "squat". If you "have to" open the gaps up to get spark energy, the box is not supplying what they claim. Increasing plug gaps should be decided on an individual engine basis, not by the box.
The lowest plug wire resistance is not always the best either. A coil has to build energy (resistance) and then release it. This resistance is a combined part of the coil, plug wires, plugs, etc. The more efficient units can operate with slightly higher plug wire resistances to eliminate outside interferences. Weaker units require extremely low resistance plug wires and ignition coils, virtually just blowing the spark through the coil and wires to get to the plugs.
E) "All these controls will help you achieve more performance". Many of the available "gadget boxes" are just that. If you have a real need for timing controls, high speed retards, etc, then get a box that uses these features. Just because the box has these controls does not mean you will get more performance. Computer programmable ignitions (where you hook your laptop or PC to the ignition) are for dyno rooms. Once you have a setting that works for your specific engine, it probably never needs to be tweaked again. You can play with those settings for months and never get a single HP gain from them.
Choose the brand and type's that you believe will best benefit your need's, not what your buddy's need's might have been.

Myfetang

How about this article...good tune up one and shows air silencer removal

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/projectbuild/4297/

aode08

WE NEED THIS ON HERE PERIOD, NO EXCEPTIONS, INTAKE MANIFOLD PROCEDURE FROM FORD





After the intake manifold is in place, run a finger around the seal area to make sure the seals are in place. If the seals are not in place, remove the intake manifold and position the seals.


- Install the intake manifold attaching bolts and tighten, in 3 passes of the sequence:
1.

First tighten to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
2.

Then tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
3.

Finally, tighten the bolts to 23-25 ft. lbs. (31-34 Nm).
4

Install the heater tube assembly to the lower intake manifold studs.
5

Install the water pump bypass hose on the thermostat housing. Install the hoses to the heater tubes. Connect the upper radiator hose.
6

Connect the fuel lines, then temporarily connect the negative battery cable. Cycle the ignition to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks. Turn the ignition key back and forth (from ON to OFF) at least 6 times, leaving the key ON for 5 seconds each time. If no leaks are found, disconnect the negative battery cable and continue the installation.
7

If removed, install the distributor, aligning the housing and rotor with the marks that were made during removal. Install the distributor cap. Position the spark plug wires in the harness brackets on the rocker arm cover attaching stud and connect the wires to the spark plugs.

If the engine was moved with the distributor out, rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke. Align the correct initial timing mark with the pointer, then position the distributor in the block with the rotor at the No. 1 firing position and install the hold-down clamp. For more information on distributor removal and installation, and for helpful hints on figuring out when the engine is at TDC, please refer to the distributor and timing procedures in General Information & Maintenance in this repair guide.

8

Install a new gasket and the upper intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm). Install the cover plate and connect the crankcase vent tube.
9

Connect the accelerator cable, TV cable and cruise control cable, as equipped, to the throttle body.
10

Engage the wiring connectors and vacuum lines as tagged during removal.
11

Connect the coolant hoses to the EGR spacer.
12

Install the air intake duct assembly and the crankcase vent hose.
13

Connect the negative battery cable, then fill and bleed the cooling system.
14

Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check for leaks.
15

Operate the engine at fast idle. When engine temperatures have stabilized, check the intake manifold bolt torque values.
16

If the lower intake was removed and/or the distributor was disturbed, check the ignition timing.