5.0L General DiscussionThis section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.
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First off, I hope i'm posting this in the right spot. Sorry, mods, if i'm not.
Anyway, I ran into a problem with my 'stang and was hoping a few of the members here could give me some advice.
Here's the deal. The car runs absolutely fine, as long as I hold the ignition forward with my fingers a little bit after starting it. This is the only way to keep it running. If i let the ignition spring back to where it wants to rest naturally (the run position,) the car dies.
I pulled the steering wheel and removed the multi-function switch in hopes that I might be able to see enough to fix it. No dice there, and I'm afraid to tear too much further into it without some advice from someone who knows more. I'd like to fix it myself, but I don't want to cost myself a huge repair bill by screwing something up because I got in way over my head. If anyone is familiar with this issue at all, or could even give me the exact part name of the ignition switch housing, I would greatly appreciate it.
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Sorry not bring up an old thread but I have the exact same problem and I want to know if I need to replace the mechanical part where the key goes or the electrical part of it. Thanks in advance!
99% of the time it's the electronic ignition switch on located under the steering column. They have weak metal tabs that are bent over to keep them together, over time they loosen up. Allot times you can realign the case and recrimp the tabs and it will work properly again.
89 LX Coupe: Factory 5.0, common performance and suspension bolt-ons (306 build inprogress)
86 GT: (current 1/4 project) will have primarily Team Z suspension and chassis additions, 408 with nitrous in the works
2003 Mach 1: programer, exhaust, 4.10'
Update On the ignition switch problem. PJC RACING you were right it was the electrical part of the switch. The part was only $12 and it was a snap to replace. I was also going to buy the lock part of the switch and replace it but they were out of stock so I just got the switch. Thanks for all the help.
new switch, new lock cylinder and I still have to hold the key in the run position to keep the car running. what else could be the problem? the only thing I can think of is the housing for the cylinder and switch assembly; maybe the pushrod that works the switch is worn. anyone have a good diagram of the ignition switch wiring? I'll put everything on a toggle switch and just use the key for the starter...
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