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5.0L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.

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Old 01-20-2009, 05:56 PM   #11
projectresto83
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89 is the way to go I think. But just FYI fox's are from 79-93 , not just 88-93. It is the 87-93 that are EFI too. As for the tuning you won't have to do with the basic bolt ons and even with mild strokers. Mass air allows for the computer to compensate for alot of work on these cars. It is not like the s197's where everything requires a new flash. Good luck with the build and keep everyone updated. Welcome to the world of the foxbody!
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:37 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by projectresto83 View Post
89 is the way to go I think. But just FYI fox's are from 79-93 , not just 88-93. It is the 87-93 that are EFI too. As for the tuning you won't have to do with the basic bolt ons and even with mild strokers. Mass air allows for the computer to compensate for alot of work on these cars. It is not like the s197's where everything requires a new flash. Good luck with the build and keep everyone updated. Welcome to the world of the foxbody!
Alright well that a good thing to know, so now im curious ive been reading about people doing engine swaps in to these what is a popular swap into a fox? From what I understand the block on the foxs are only good to about 500rwhp can anyone confirm the stock engines potential or am i misunderstanding other posts?
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:43 PM   #13
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No engine block has a specific "limit" as far as power goes. But as a general rule I've heard not to expect a stock bottom end thrive for too long after somewhere around the 500 mark?

Are you planning on making more power than that? the only realistic way to get there with three hundred and two cubes is boost and plenty of it.

351 swaps are pretty popular and a bit more robust than a 302 for big power projects.
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:44 PM   #14
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I think everyone hit the high spots. Also the Mustangs built between April 17, 1989 and April 17, 1990 have 25th anniversary badge. This site http://www.mustangspecs.com/ will tell you some more differences between the years. Also if the car is a real gt vin numbers 6 and 7 will be 42 for a coupe or 44 for a vert. The lx's are worth slightly less than a gt.

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Old 01-20-2009, 07:47 PM   #15
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Remember that the pre 1986 foxes came from the factory with a carb and are not fuel injected and IIRC didn't have as much power as the EFI cars.
84-85 had cfi/efi just a different type of fuel injection but none the less efi and this was on AOD cars
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:26 PM   #16
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yeah, I'd say go around 89. For the cool DD factor do a GT Hatch, if you are leaning more toward the quickness get a LX notch. (lightest).

500 is about the limit most people agree with. I wouldn't actually run 500 on a stock block, but its a pritty hefty little thing. Your internals will hold up way past the blocks breaking point. (thats what I've been told at least)

Oh, and as for actually buying one. When you start looking make sure you check the "Rust Spots" under the hatch/trunk lid is known for the stuff. But give the whole car a good look over to make sure its all in good shape.

as for engines, 347s and 351s are the big players. some people swear by the 347, but the good old 352 has "no replacement for displacement" on its side.

If you're lucky get a full set of GT40 engine parts to go with it. Or buy a Cobra...or a Cobra R...even better lol. (they were made in 93)

Good luck!
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Old 01-20-2009, 09:57 PM   #17
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This is a mustang timeline that I found a while back; found it real useful!

http://bradbarnett.net/mustangs/timeline/index.htm
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:13 PM   #18
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Somebody said to try to find the most stock one you can, as I look through different ones though it seems the ones that are in good condition are either modified a good amount or pretty heavily modified, Is there any particular reason why specifically for this type of car i wouldnt want to buy one thats been modded? or is it just the basic reasons of buying a modded vehicle or is there something I dont know or should know about this particular type of car?
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:40 AM   #19
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By getting a stock car, you'll know specifically whats been/hasn't been done to the car. Plus the appreciation value when you can do a mod and feel the difference. It just becomes your own ya know.. kinda sentimental, not just a car. Sorry for getting all mushy. Love my 'stang.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:44 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Eric261 View Post
Somebody said to try to find the most stock one you can, as I look through different ones though it seems the ones that are in good condition are either modified a good amount or pretty heavily modified, Is there any particular reason why specifically for this type of car i wouldnt want to buy one thats been modded? or is it just the basic reasons of buying a modded vehicle or is there something I dont know or should know about this particular type of car?

thats so you dont buy someone else's problem. some, actually a lot of people mod a car and they install things incorrectly or they do this little rinky dink way of installing things that work for them but will eventually fail due to their lack of knowledge. and you get the satisfaction knowing you built your car or set up the car on your. specific to your own desires. also a lot of people dont put a lot of thought into their combo so you may have parts that dont match and you have a turd on your hands until you dump some money into it to make up for anothers short falls.


but some people you can tell you know whats going on. you just have to feel out the seller and go with your gut.
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