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you are probably going to have to replace a whole bunch of STFU and GTFO
****ing noob
WTF is wrong with you? Have lost to a civics much with your 12.42 second "monster"?
It's people like you that ruin the whole image of Mustang enthusiasts crowd. If you have nothing helpful to say, STFU yourself.
Because otherwise you make it sound like stock Mustang is useless for launching, useless for drifting, and can't beat a riced up civic. And then you go and start talking trash about other cars that compared to your precious gem can be tortured to the extreme and back without even blinking an eye when stock, and will beat crap out of YOUR car without cheater nitrous!
Hop into pretty much any other auto enthusiast forum and you'll get helpful answers without getting called a noob. Here, you make it sound like you have to be an ass to drive a Mustang.
It's a pity you can't even answer a simple question like what are the weak spots of your car and what is supposed to break when you drive it hard. Ask about that in any other enthusiast forum and they will tell you what will break, under what circumstances and what are the preventive steps or upgrade paths to keep the car going.
EDIT: The post was not meant to offend anyone, as I like Mustangs, that's one of the reasons I brought one! But stop calling others rice burners and noobs if you haven't run 10's yet.
Last edited by Madman_DSM; 09-30-2009 at 08:02 AM.
Just be prepared to be adding more and more motor oil.
Well, I still didn't quite get this part... How is the engine oil related to drifting/launching, is the Mustang known for being oil thirsty when pushed? Does it wear down oil rings, valve seals, blows the head gaskets at a very high rate when not driven easily?
The DSMs doesn't seem to mind high revs and high loads at all, the oil level stays the same all the time. But I've heard that M5s tend to eat oil. Is it like a known problem for large displacement vehicles? I always though oil problems are directly related to ****ty engine rebuilds or old and hard valve seals. Or pushing the engine to the redline while the oil is still cold, which causes abnormal oil pressures in the engine.
All in all it seems the worst part in all this drifting/launching are the shocks that are sent through the draivetrain/suspension/clutch when tires bite and when you drop the clutch at high'ish revs. But the 5.0 should be able to cope with that, shouldn't it?
Last edited by Madman_DSM; 09-30-2009 at 08:51 AM.
Be sure to shift at nothing less than 7k rpms. Throw on some good Drag radials and launch at 6,500.
Well, this is not my drag car, rather a DD, so I will probably avoid the drag radials. And 6,500 sounds like broken rear axles to me if paired with drag radials, are you really, really sure?
And those 7k? With stock exhaust and intake it seems kinda high. I heard the optimal shift points are somewhere around 5200 RPMs, but I couldn't find any dyno sheets for stock vehicle so I am really hoping someone share their experiences. I think shifting from 7000 will throw you somewhere way above max hp (4400) and max tq (3500) range.
Also are you sure that 7k is not way too high for the engine. It's not the revy kind it seems.
Well the bright side is that parts are very cheap for stangs, but head gasket replacement seems to be PITA for 5.0. As far as I understand only 3.6 had a problem with head gaskets from factory?
So from what I gather the launch on 5.0 is still best around 3000-4000 RPMs and shift points at 5200 RPMs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollister Hoodlum
But expect stuff to start breaking, yeah parts might be cheap, but small costs can add up extremely fast.
That's true, but still, every car behaves in a different way. Some are just very sturdy and can take any amount of abuse as long as you don't start to add more ponies.
So part of the original question is, what is the usual scenario when you push the car. Will it go for 2/3 years without any repairs, like many cars do, will it start to break some specific parts, again like some cars do, or is it going to be a chain reaction with parts breaking starting from rear axles and ending with broken rods.
I can't believe everyone drives slowly with no hard launches and drift sessions ever. Someone must know where the weak links are.
weak links- you got a car that is a great platform, but was built cheap by ford.
My suggestion is stiffen the body as you have no frame, convert to 4 disk, upgrade the rear diff cover, bearings, and gears, put a blower on it if you want more power and upgrade the suspension (bare minimum, coils, shocks and struts, lower control arms)
And, with the gears your power will kick in earlier, so you could be a little more gentle on the tranny and launch a little lower in the rpms.
__________________
1989 Mustang Lx Sport 25th Ann. Bolt ons. Big Block Swap in Planning.
1979 Ford Bronco, 4 inch lift, 35 a/t 460 + c6 + np205 d44 and 9 inch, debating dana 60/sterling swap.
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With stock exhaust and intake it seems kinda high. 
I heard the optimal shift points are somewhere around 5200 RPMs, but I couldn't find any dyno sheets for stock vehicle so I am really hoping someone share their experiences. I think shifting from 7000 will throw you somewhere way above max hp (4400) and max tq (3500) range.
