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Thinking of picking up another mustang, tell me what to look for
i'm going to look at a 1984 mustang tomorrow. The ad doesn't say if its a 4cly turbo, v8 or 6 cyl. I'm gonna look at the obivous like frame damage, rust underneath, check for head gasket leaks or any type of leaks.
the price is 1400 and the body looks like its in perfect shape. it has 151k, ac still works and its an automatic. the paint might be fading from the pics but i can't say for sure.
what else should i look for/ask?
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fresh 306,Trickflow top end kit, T-5, 3:55's, Mac C/C plates, Eibach pro springs, Strange 10 ways, Pro 5.0, 24lb injectors, BBK 75mm tb, Pro M Maf/CAI, Walbro 190 lph, holley FPR, tubular k member, bbk shorty headers, o/r h pipe with no cats, flowmasters, 17x9 Cobra R, shaved doors, antenna and emblems, SVO hood, Saleen spoiler, no backseat and probably more
soon to come:
100 shot, rear suspension and new tires
Anyway, im going between classes so i'll have about 20 min for test drive and 20 min to inspect
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fresh 306,Trickflow top end kit, T-5, 3:55's, Mac C/C plates, Eibach pro springs, Strange 10 ways, Pro 5.0, 24lb injectors, BBK 75mm tb, Pro M Maf/CAI, Walbro 190 lph, holley FPR, tubular k member, bbk shorty headers, o/r h pipe with no cats, flowmasters, 17x9 Cobra R, shaved doors, antenna and emblems, SVO hood, Saleen spoiler, no backseat and probably more
soon to come:
100 shot, rear suspension and new tires
door jams, trunk, etc for rust. make sure all the body panels line up nice and straight too or its probably been in a fender bender and never reported >.< personal experience.
door jams, trunk, etc for rust. make sure all the body panels line up nice and straight too or its probably been in a fender bender and never reported >.< personal experience.
i'm hoping that the body is straight and the interior is in decent shape. i really don't wanna another project on my hands, so the big selling point is going to be the interior. for 1400 bucks i think the interior my be shot
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fresh 306,Trickflow top end kit, T-5, 3:55's, Mac C/C plates, Eibach pro springs, Strange 10 ways, Pro 5.0, 24lb injectors, BBK 75mm tb, Pro M Maf/CAI, Walbro 190 lph, holley FPR, tubular k member, bbk shorty headers, o/r h pipe with no cats, flowmasters, 17x9 Cobra R, shaved doors, antenna and emblems, SVO hood, Saleen spoiler, no backseat and probably more
soon to come:
100 shot, rear suspension and new tires
If the body lines a little off between the front of the door and the fender,pick up on the bottom of the door.If you can move the door up and down the hinge pins are shot, but that's an easy fix and under 20 bucks to do.
The lower hatch on these cars always rots out.As stated before check that area too.Other than that carpet and interior pieces are fairly easy to do on these cars.
Look at the lower strut towers fender aprons and frame rails in the engine bay, they tend to rust and if it has been smashed up, you can see it there sometimes. The lower quarters in front the the rear tires seem to go too. The hatch is a definite to look at. I would wear some cloths you don't mind getting dirty, lay on the ground and check everything out real good. I have noticed that the floors will rust where the firewall meets the floor board. If it is undercoated, bring a knife or screwdriver to poke with. Other than that, just look for things that don't look normal.
Make sure that the engine cold when you get there, if it is, he might be hiding something by warming it up first. Have him start it and watch the tail pipes for smoke. Has he been driving it? Been sitting? If it has been, ask why. People don't usually park good running cars.
if u look closely u can see the tag on my passenger fender, parallel to the camber plate and on my front bumper, right next to the passenger headlight.
so i saw it today, everthing looked pretty straight. It was a v6, which i don't know if thats carbed or cfi? There were a few dings here and there, but the body is 99% straight. the gaps looked good on the body but where the window meets the the back window area the gap looked a little funny. it could be the weather stipping
the flaws were the dash was cracked (like most 4 eyed), the right inside blinker didn't work (outside did), the rpm's didn't work and the hatch doesn't latch unless you slam it. there where a few wires hanging next to the stock radio and he said it was somebody had a stereo in there. there also is a hitch on the back, which kinda of scares me. but the car was cold, (which i thought he might warm it up first. he threw me the keys and said go gor a spin. the car didn't miss and for a 84 6cy the damn thing had some pick up. the tranny shifted KINDA funny, not bad at all (my maxima shifts worse and its my DD) but it did not smoke at all. (watching through the rearview)
the interior was clean for a 84 with a little scuff here and there in the hatch area plastic panels. It did look like there was rtv on the both top left and right part of the body where the hatch connects. he said it was becuase it leaked before that or something but i'm wondering if it was hiding any rust. the water side rails had no rust where i figured they would be nor did the actual hatch. It's def doesn't compare to my 92 in looks and performance so it would be hard to put this around. the thing has plastic hub caps LOL.
And as for any rust, i'll i noticed was surface rust or what i think is surface rust a little underneath the car. I had about ten min before the guy show up and i tried poking through any spot were it looked like rust I didn't see and rot or major damage from the rust. the car has spent its whole life in TX and only one owner before this dealership/car lot.
oh one other thing, was the chrome trim around the door had dings in it, i was curious if those can be banged out or replaced w/o having to replace the door.
He won't let me take it to a shop and lift it up and get opions on it but when asked him he said bring em over. he wasn't afraid of me getting lemon busters out there. i'm having a buddy of mine take a look at it for me in the next couple of days and if he thinks its worth 1400 i might just buy it.
How much and how hard will it be to convert this thing to a 5.0 efi down the road. i already have the top end, with injectors, and such. i also have a computer for it too and also how hard will it be to put power locks and power windows in ?i'm guessing a rear-end, trans, double sump, bellhousing, and a bottom end, misc stuff, plus the wiring harness is gonna cost me around 1500 bucks used maybe? what do you guys think? sorry i don't have pics. i'll try to get some
__________________
fresh 306,Trickflow top end kit, T-5, 3:55's, Mac C/C plates, Eibach pro springs, Strange 10 ways, Pro 5.0, 24lb injectors, BBK 75mm tb, Pro M Maf/CAI, Walbro 190 lph, holley FPR, tubular k member, bbk shorty headers, o/r h pipe with no cats, flowmasters, 17x9 Cobra R, shaved doors, antenna and emblems, SVO hood, Saleen spoiler, no backseat and probably more
soon to come:
100 shot, rear suspension and new tires
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Thinking of picking up another mustang, tell me what to look for
