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Disappointing 0-60, 1/8, 1/4 mi times, trap speeds, likely problems

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Old 10-04-2009, 06:40 AM
  #11  
Madman_DSM
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Originally Posted by PRO50SC
What are the mods on the car? Again, is it auto or manual?
Manual (MT), the car is 100% stock.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:06 AM
  #12  
572ysc
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Try to launch her at round 1700 and keep the rpms real steady then let out of the clutch smoothly and while applying more gas when rolling. You want them only to squeel for a sec(spinning to much costs time). Don't worry bout the reaction time at first concentrate at launching. Also you wanna try to come as close to your max torque as possible when shifting into the next gear. (i think round 3800rpms is where your needle should be when the second and third gear is in)

(Also go into the box and dont burn them off just dumb the clutch a little higher to get them to turn until it grabs - no brakes until it hooks) this gets them cleaned off.

Make sure your spark plugs are clean or new, fuel filter has recently been changed, (brake drag?), sometimes changing tranny fluid and gear oil helps to. I use castrol ATF witch lucas additive in my tranny and for motorcraft gear oil in the rear drives a lot smoother).

Tire pressure makes a big difference to take them to 30lb and start dropping it a little more every time but i wouldnt recommend anything below 25lb.
I get best traction with 28lb of pressure.

Hope this helps you a little.(pls dont take this advice the wrong way my first 1/4 mile in the mustang was 20.21 seconds lol went through two gears before i moved now in down to 14.27 in a stock 99 gt convertible with 157000miles lol).
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:09 AM
  #13  
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where you located in europe? germany? I used to livee in germany for 18 years. Hockenheim is awesome. Eisenach drag strip when you just wanna fool round and race lol.
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:58 AM
  #14  
JD1969
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My bet is he did not go to a track and is using a gtech or similar device. If so, that is your problem, those things are all the map as far accuracy goes.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:04 AM
  #15  
nitrous_bob
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Originally Posted by Madman_DSM

1) Yea, summer street tires, Pirelli P6000, 255/60R16. I guess 60ft around 2.50+ is somewhere close, I have no data.


2) Shift points were around 5200 RPMs.

1) do you have an et slip ? how did you get the numbers you posted ??

2) using the stock tach ?? thats no good you need a shift lite or good tach

other than that do all the usual stuff, check and gap plugs (i'd close them to about .045" or so") make sure all the wires are not burned, and that all of them are ACTUALLY "snapped" on all the way

also check the timimg, run it at 12* for now, and make you sure the SPOUT is still there. i lost mine once and was 1/2 sec slow til i went to check the timing again and realized i never put it back in and lost it. you can use a jumper wire in a pinch

then check for broken vac lines, do the iac unplug thing... see if it stalls, do your tps and thats all i can think of for quickie stuff
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:05 AM
  #16  
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yeah not that accurate those things lol
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:09 AM
  #17  
nitrous_bob
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and fyi, my '88 notch 5-speed on street tires 100% stock 2.73 gears managed a 14.27 one time... a string of 15's from not hooking... but finally coaxed it out right and knocked it down. it only went to the track that one day

and more fyi... my '90 GT aod went `14.40 100% bone stock w/ short belt and 3.27 gears on street tires... typically ran 14.60-14.80 though manually shifting + AOD Shuffle + short belt
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:16 AM
  #18  
mjr46
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g-tech ftl!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:17 AM
  #19  
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The 1/8 mi times are from the track, they sent an excel file of all participants, and times ranged from 12.6 @ 62 to 11.5 @ 64.

0-60 was measured by stopwatch and 1/4 mi also the same way.

I will start checking stuff tomorrow. Shame that dyno run costs about 60$

I'm from Latvia.
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:45 AM
  #20  
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no wonder times are so far off..lol stopwatch racing, that's worse and more inacurate then a g-tech, you need to go to an actual track that uses sensors with light beams to trip the timing mechanism
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