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Because I live in Latvia. Kit in the shop will cost starting from around 60$, and shipping will cost around 200$ (UPS) if I'll buy it online from USA. It's painful, but all performance parts are at least 2x more expensive here once you go through the shipping/handling/customs/VAT chain.
Maybe I'll find a kit on the ebay, that's the only hope to get it cheap, but with 2 week shipping times
I'll report how the MAF and fuel pressure tests will go first.
31 psi with vacuum hose on? Then it might be that fuel pressure is correct. I was told it has to be way higher. I got 29 on vac connected, so I guess it could get as high as 39 at WOT. Service had an info it's supposed to be 60 psi at partial/full throttle, somewhere around 40 on idle.
Darn, no one here has a clue about how these cars operate And no manuals...
Testing was very simple.
Step 1: EEC test -> 2 codes relate to lean condition and fuel pump problems
Step 2: We took the measurement of fuel pressure at fuel rail -> 29 psi
Step 3: Call to people who work with American cars, they say around 60 psi is the average pressure.
Step 4: Fuel pump test/Voltage drop tests
Step 5: Fuel pressure regulator test
Step 6: Useless conclusions because of "step 3"
If the 31 psi with vacuum is target, then 29 psi is kinda close and all the conclusions we made today are wrong. But I can't say we didn't tried to do best we could based on information we could find.
Darn, I need to get a copy of the factory manual. No one here knows anything about these cars Not even a Ford dealership...
If the fuel assumptions about 60 psi operating pressure were wrong, then yes, MAF is the next thing that is suspect. I'll try to swap MAFs with donor tomorrow. But if it doesn't help then I'll be operating in a dark again I will try to do a stationery fuel pressure tests with vac hose closed to see if it reaches 39 psi too, but other than that... Next thing is the compression test on all 8 cylinders which is expensive... and out of ideas...
I could so use the manual
P.S.: mjr46, I'm sorry that I reacted the way I was, but I was working on contradicting information, you have given me a very valuable advice and I'm very grateful.
60 psi is way wrong for a mustang 5.0, what matt stated is correct, when you get the gauge you need to move away from the stationary test and tape gauge to windshield and floor it for a good 5-10 sec and watch what happens to pressure, it should hit at or around 38-40 psi, if it drops off to low or nothing then you have a fuel delivery issue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeboy
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
It was the MAF, I swapped it with one from a donor car and car came alive. Now I can hang with old model M5s, no more trucking
The only problem I have now is that the car stutters at low loads/RPMs. Say if I put it in 1st, and release the gas, it'll slow down to max and then it'll start twitching. And if I step on a gas it'll hesitate a little before it starts to pull.
I think this was a symptom of something, but I can't remember what exactly.
I will try to do a KOEO/KOER tests tomorrow and reset the codes, maybe something will come up. But if someone have any ideas that would be great.
Yea, but that fuel pump error code set me on the wrong path
So you think the hesitation/twitching is still related to MAF?
yeah but owning a gauge goes along way and in 5 min by running the tests I suggested I would of known all was well with FP, AS FAR AS THE HESITATION, i'D RESET THE ECM then drive it and rerun koer test and look for any tps codes or simple back probe the signal wire on the tps and with a dvom look for any opens while slowly rolling the throttle open, also has the car had plugs, cap, rotor and wires recently??
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dudeboy
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
OP... do you have any idea how to run the OBD-1 codes?
(please dont give me a laundry list answer... just a simple yes, or ****ing no)
What do you mean by "run"? Read DTCs or to do a data-log?
I know how to get/clear KOEO/KOER codes via blinking CEL. I've done OBD2 data-logging via OBD2 and MUTIII. But I don't have the cable and software to data-log this car. The only OBD1 cable I have is with different type of connector.
The cable that matches Ford connector is OpenPort 1.3U, but it's an OBD2 USB cable, not OBD1. So it seems I can't data-log this car as it has different protocol and plug wiring than OpenPort 1.3U requires.
If you know which cable and software I need to data-log Mustang I will consider that option, of course, if it's not overly expensive.
What do you mean by "run"? Read DTCs or to do a data-log?
I know how to get/clear KOEO/KOER codes via blinking CEL. I've done OBD2 data-logging via OBD2 and MUTIII. But I don't have the cable and software to data-log this car. The only OBD1 cable I have is with different type of connector.
The cable that matches Ford connector is OpenPort 1.3U, but it's an OBD2 USB cable, not OBD1. So it seems I can't data-log this car as it has different protocol and plug wiring than OpenPort 1.3U requires.
If you know which cable and software I need to data-log Mustang I will consider that option, of course, if it's not overly expensive.
oh my ****ing god...
didnt I tell you NOT to give me a whole god damn story?
the only "datalogging" you should do, is with a pad, and pen
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Then it might be that fuel pressure is correct. I was told it has to be way higher. I got 29 on vac connected, so I guess it could get as high as 39 at WOT. Service had an info it's supposed to be 60 psi at partial/full throttle, somewhere around 40 on idle.
And no manuals...
Not even a Ford dealership...
