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thats just metco crap, you can get instant center brackets to work with any suspension just have to buy the universal ones. Basically it is a relocater, you just now have the adjustment of moving the control arm up or down instead of closer or farther, Ron will explain in the email. When he replys tell him alex sent you he should pay a little more attention if you say that lol. Hes in vegas for the sema show but should be answering emails
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92lx frpp 5.0 gt40, vortech s-trim 14# Mighty mite m2 c4, Trickflow track heat, 4800 tct stall, 3.73 rear gears, true-trac, moser 31s,Wilwood drag brakes, strange 10-ways on all 4, weld prostars, M/T's & skinneys, Team Z Motorsports front k member kit and coilovers, eibach drag springs dual airbag
best Et-10.96
best mph 123.60 still got some in it. leaving it in the 60'
3145lbs with driver
Winter objective:10point,mini tub, team z rear suspesion, kirkley seats, 29.5x12.5 m/t et streets
my mega bite jr lowers sort of have something like an instant center bracket. There are 2 holes that you can put the lca in the first one is higher and adds like 75 % more traction and the bottom one that I have it in offers like 130% more traction then stock. The instant center just lets you adjust more
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92lx frpp 5.0 gt40, vortech s-trim 14# Mighty mite m2 c4, Trickflow track heat, 4800 tct stall, 3.73 rear gears, true-trac, moser 31s,Wilwood drag brakes, strange 10-ways on all 4, weld prostars, M/T's & skinneys, Team Z Motorsports front k member kit and coilovers, eibach drag springs dual airbag
best Et-10.96
best mph 123.60 still got some in it. leaving it in the 60'
3145lbs with driver
Winter objective:10point,mini tub, team z rear suspesion, kirkley seats, 29.5x12.5 m/t et streets
you really need adjustable spring perches for it to work best because then you can adjust the height of the the instant center level easier
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92lx frpp 5.0 gt40, vortech s-trim 14# Mighty mite m2 c4, Trickflow track heat, 4800 tct stall, 3.73 rear gears, true-trac, moser 31s,Wilwood drag brakes, strange 10-ways on all 4, weld prostars, M/T's & skinneys, Team Z Motorsports front k member kit and coilovers, eibach drag springs dual airbag
best Et-10.96
best mph 123.60 still got some in it. leaving it in the 60'
3145lbs with driver
Winter objective:10point,mini tub, team z rear suspesion, kirkley seats, 29.5x12.5 m/t et streets
The 100% anti squat line is important(called the normal or neutral line above, though that's the first time I've heard it called that).
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Who cares how much horsepower it has, all that matters is how fast it goes!
13.20's with 2.25-2.30 60's, 40+ year old suspension sucks!
Best trap 107.11mph, we'll see what the new intake/carb setup does.
12.80 at 110.5mph NHRA DA corrected
ok adjustable spring perches are like a coil over in a sense http://www.steeda.com/products/weightjackers.php the spring perch and be adjusted to coil the spring tighter which sould bring the car lower or turned down to raise the car higher in the rear this way you can mess with ride height to get the proper IC. and yes you want to get as close to 100% anti squat as possible. basically the farther forward the instant center angle is the better grip you are getting. that is why a lot of cars go to a ladder bar for drag racing because the instant center goes from the rear of the car where the mounting points are the the middle of the car where the ladder bar attaches. You mainly make the suspension work better by transferring force to the tires and not to the suspension. It is confusing and I still am trying to grasp the concept my self but thats why you should have a professional install them lol. Ron at BCP will be able to explain it better
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92lx frpp 5.0 gt40, vortech s-trim 14# Mighty mite m2 c4, Trickflow track heat, 4800 tct stall, 3.73 rear gears, true-trac, moser 31s,Wilwood drag brakes, strange 10-ways on all 4, weld prostars, M/T's & skinneys, Team Z Motorsports front k member kit and coilovers, eibach drag springs dual airbag
best Et-10.96
best mph 123.60 still got some in it. leaving it in the 60'
3145lbs with driver
Winter objective:10point,mini tub, team z rear suspesion, kirkley seats, 29.5x12.5 m/t et streets
It depends on the setup and what you're doing. For drag racing you actually want to be above the 100% AS line(on most cars) so you get separation of the rear and plant the tires harder(like was mentioned earlier), but without lifting the front end too violently(energy used to lift the front up is wasted, when it could be used to move the car forward) or causing the car to be difficult to control. Remember that the goal is to get the best, most efficient launch possible, not simply hit the tires as hard as you can.
The more AS you have the harder you "hit" the tires and load them...but, they also unload more rapidly as well. So you can plant hard on launch but then get 50-100' out and have the tires unload and lose traction or have them load-unload every time you shift, and it can make the car difficult to control down track as you fluctuate between periods of high and low traction.
Maintaining the IC right on or very close to the 100% AS line makes the car very predictable, and is good for a sports car type setup since it causes traction to be consistent since the car doesn't pitch or dive as you throttle in and out, which is important for cornering control since it keeps the front end at a stable height and the alignment characteristics stay the same, so you have predictable steering response as you go into and come out of corners.
In the end for any setup, you're trying to get the best vehicle control for what your intended use is. In drag racing the goal is to get the quickest launch possible that maintains good vehicle control. There's no point in launching so hard that the car does wheel stands and then slams back down and goes all over the place.
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Who cares how much horsepower it has, all that matters is how fast it goes!
13.20's with 2.25-2.30 60's, 40+ year old suspension sucks!
Best trap 107.11mph, we'll see what the new intake/carb setup does.
12.80 at 110.5mph NHRA DA corrected
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