Shelty

i just love the look of the foxes with those GT wheels on them. i wanna try to snag a set for my car... and have the rears widened one inch lol

projectresto83

Well they hold a 275/40 pretty well but a 9 inch wheel would make it bulge a little less.

That RSX in front of my car is what I am about to replace an engine in for one of my soldiers. He blew something and put one hell of a hole in his oil pan lol. I can't wait to see that carnage!

302army187

sweet!

seemd to run pretty good for being a tooth off and not being charged.

cootertwo

I think the hole you plugged in the pump is what's called the "weep" hole. It will let gas out, if the diaphragm gets a hole in it. I suspect you may be getting gas into the crankcase.

projectresto83

I went to Advance today and the alternator is good so now I have to track down the issue with the wiring. It is reading 12V right off the starter solenoid.

projectresto83

Well I did some testing yesterday and it comes out to be my regulator on the alt is bad. Even though the whole thing tested fine at Advance, its not. I grounded out the spot on the back that says ground here to test and checked the voltage at the starter solenoid and through the plug on the top of the alt itself and came out with 13.5ish at both spots. Thats better than my 11.5-12's. NOW I just can't decide if I want to go ahead with a 3g from the junk yard or just order a new regulator. It will cost about the same lol. I already know the answer though, get the 3g, but that means I have to take the time to go out to the junk yard and get one but that might not happen for awhile. I am trying to save money to go home on at the end of June.

projectresto83

New test brings to light the real issue on my charging. It is NOT the regulator. I am not getting the 12v from the green/red sensing wire that goes to the D plug. It is what triggers the regulator to work basically. I have not tracked down where the voltage stops at yet but I know it goes to the battery light in the instrument cluster. This is probably why the volts gauge isn't working either. Hopefully tonight I will get a chance tonight to fish out the problem.

projectresto83

And I was right! It was because the sensing wire was not giving its 12v to the regulator. Now the big reason why it wasn't sending the 12 volts......




























THE GAUGE CLUSTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Apparently you can't swap 91+ clusters with earlier ones. They will plug in but the wiring on right side plug is different. The red/green wire that goes from the ignition to the cluster (voltmeter) is on the bottom of the plug and on the earlier clusters there are no wires on the bottom of that plug. So just for the insight the ignition wire, red/green wire, goes to the voltmeter and back out to the regulator as the green/red wire (12v sensing wire) giving the regulator its 12v to kick it on. I thought the sensing wire was what the voltmeter got its reading from going from the alt to the cluster. Good thing I can read schematics lol. That is something I learned in the army for once.

So now the next step is bleed the front brakes, replace the fuel pump so it works properly, fix my timing, finish the break in of the cam, then the test drive!!!! That might all happen this weekend!

TrimDrip

I may can help you out with a pump. A friend of mine gave me a couple of Ford fuel pumps the other day brand new still in the plastic. He was just going to throw them away. I have no idea what they fit though. If you want, I could grab one tomorrow and give you a part number on it to look up. It ought to not be but 15 bucks shipped if it will work. Unless they can be bought cheaper

302army187

glad you figured it out. Dunno if I could have done the same that quick/easy.

I hate wiring.