kuikcat

Hi i am in desprate need of help. Here is a little history I have a 91 mustang wich was stock (and now i wish i had left it that way). I took out the engine rebuilt the short block, added aluminum edelbrock performer heads and intake, anderson b21 cam, 1.7 rockers 42lb injectors 80mm maf calibrated for 42's, vorech v1 s-trim, 255 fuelpump. and exhaust.
now the car wont start back up when it gets hot. i can turn the car on for a wile, then when i turn it off it wont start back up until it cools off. Also when i went for a quick test drive down the street and back, it does not run too good. it feels like it lacks allot of power then it catches it only to buck and loose it again.
I have tried the following things since i have another 5.0. i swapped out distributor, and coil. I have spark when i crank it. and i also have fuel pressure at about 38. Im lost. please help. I'm thinking maybe some sensor i had it scanned for codes and all i got was a code for the smog, and the temp sesor, i have autometer gauge.

kuikcat

any help

Riceinator

Many good efi no start "how-to's" can be found here.
Also, when you replaced your distributor, did you replace it a new one? Also, was the tfi module replaced?

fordboy5.0

iam having the same DAMN problem dont know what the f**k!!!! except my car is completly stock!!! im going to try and replace the tfi module and get back to you.

mjr46

what kind of maf are you using/ brand?? also when you say it won't start , do you mean cranks but won't start or won't crank therefore won't start??

fordboy5.0

i think he means when its hot itll crank good but not start mine does the same thing but the owner before me told me that i had to unplug the #1 and #5 injector and it will start???? and it works. but this is his thread maybe we have a similar problem though? i will try different stuff and see if it helps.

fordboy5.0

oh sorry i didnt understand the post if you got a code for smog and temp sensor it can be a big deal your ecu reads the temp sensor to tell what temp ur engine is at and if it goes bad it can read the temp as being -40 and just dump fuel into ur cylinders i would try testing it at a parts store first because i read out of a book that if you test the sensors with llike a ohms meter it can screw em up idk if thats true though.

mjr46

no assumptions should ever be made in the realm of troubleshooting.....wait for the op to reply to questions posed and second......testing a sensors continuity with an ohmmeter will not screw it up.

kuikcat

the hole distributor is new. the engine does turn over, butt no start even if i press the gas all the way in. i have fuel and spark the car turns on fine after it cools off and i took it for a test drive under 2800 rpm since i have the supercharger on and no tune ( i wanted to be on the safe side) i have a c&l maf 80mm with a sample tube for 42lb iinjectors. i bought a ect sensor today and will install it tomorrow. i will let you guys know. I have also tried a new computer. nothing.

kuikcat

the hole distributor is new. the engine does turn over, butt no start even if i press the gas all the way in. i have fuel and spark the car turns on fine after it cools off and i took it for a test drive under 2800 rpm since i have the supercharger on and no tune ( i wanted to be on the safe side, it ran fine.) I have a c&l maf 80mm with a sample tube for 42lb iinjectors. I bought a ect sensor today and will install it tomorrow. I will let you guys know. I have also tried a new computer. nothing. buy the way i did not get a code for the ect just 02 sensor, oil and water sensor because im using after market oil pan and engine temp gauge.