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Coolant / Hoses – Replacement “burping the system”
I just bought all new hoses. I’ve read a ton posts on draining / burping / flushing etc……and, now I’m more confused than ever!
This is what I’m thinking my process will be. If anyone know any tips / tricks or other suggestions, my ears (uh, er eyes) are wide open to input.
I know some of this sounds rudimentary, but, in the interest of being thorough…..
- Remove cap (car cold of course)
- Remove drain
- Remove lower radiator hose (as this sits lower than drain)
- Remove remaining hoses
- Remove thermostat / Gasket
- Replace hoses and drain plug
- Fill motor will coolant via thermostat opening until drips
- Replace thermostat gasket and thermostat (necessary?…..t-Stat only has about 1,000 miles on it)
- Fill radiator
- Place Lisle 24610 Spill Free Funnel w/ Threaded Cap on, fill half way
- Jack up front end
- Start car w/ heat
- Replenish Lisle fluid as needed
Does that sound correct for replacing the fluid, and “burping” the system? Anything I’m missing, or, any other tips / tricks?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
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dont fill from the t-stat housing.... whoever told you that is a retard.
when you remove the old t-stat, put the new one in.
Replace your hoses and fill the coolant through the funnel you have.
Leave the plug in the funnel while the car is warming up. Once the T-stat opens up, the air in the system will rush to the radiator (because you have it jacked up).
Gently and carefully pull the stopper plug out to let some of the air out of the system. continue to do this and dont let the funnel get empty.
after you have done that and no more air comes out, shut the car off an put the cap on. fill the overflow reservoir to the cold fill line and let it cool off. check your coolant level over the next 3 days and top off if necessary
*edit* i forgot to mention that you dont need t run your heat. the heater core isnt valved, hot fluid runs through it all the time. Plus itll just cause the car to take longer to warm up.
Seems silly to go through all that. I just top it off at the rad, run till warm, then top off again. Check after a week and call it done. Never had an issue with any of the 8 different Capris I've owed over the years. I've done this with the car level, nose up and nose down... doesn't seem to make any diff... it's dummyproof if ya ask me.
This thread did not need to go longer than the 1st reply. The overflow system will rid off all air. It just may need a few hot and cold cycles to purge itself of air.
As for drilling the hole in the thermostat. That also is effectively the same as fixing the thermostat to never fully close.
Whenever I did the waterpump on my Ranger and Explorer, It would over heat. I ended up having to have the rad cap off and I took a 2L bottle and cut the top off. The mouth fit perfect into where the rad cap goes, and that prevented the coolant from splashing out like it did. I'm sure that's not the easiest way, but it seemed to be the only way I could get the air out with out it almost over heating.
88GT T-Tops 5spD: BBK L/Ts, O/R H pipe, 3.55 gears: Extent of modifications.
Those are in fact bleeders and they will only allow air to flow out. It will not allow liquid to flow in. A simple check valve. A hole is in fact a hole and will allow coolant and air to go in both directions.
I've drilled holes in the past too. Not a big deal but if you want a quicker warm up. No hole is better, not alot but a bit better. Done.
69 Super Bee
00 Park Avenue
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