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My Notch Build

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Old 06-22-2011, 10:36 PM   #41
oatburner99
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All very good info guys....BUT and I know Justin (ProjectResto83) can vouch for this (he witnessed it) there is no way you can launch @ 2,000+ RPM with street tire's at this track. It just turns into a smoke show....
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:55 PM   #42
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Ok so after reading a RETARDED amount of threads all over the interwebs, I figured I'd tackle this mod.

Installation of a Early 90's model 2 speed Taurus electric fan on my 90 Notchback.

Parts:
Taurus Fan:
Click the image to open in full size.

Hayden Fan Controller:
Click the image to open in full size.

75 Amp Relay :
Click the image to open in full size.

40 Amp female fuse:
Click the image to open in full size.

Radiator zip ties:
Click the image to open in full size.

10ft of 8 gauge wire
10ft of 12 gauge wire
Butt splices
Ring Terminals
Zip Ties
Electrical tape

Ok so I picked up my taurus fan for 28 bucks at our local wrench a part. The weekend before I picked up my 3g alternator for 28 bucks also.
Anyway, Here is my horrible wiring diagram, with my chicken scratch writing. Before I did anything, I wrote this down.
Click the image to open in full size.

Had a few spots where I just couldn't figure out. The write ups that are on the net vary so much, that you don't know who is right/wrong blah blah blah. So after a call and
long chat with a professional who doesn't do this for a living, finally got things ironed out. So first I did the wiring for the fan itself.
Click the image to open in full size.
Installed my 40 amp fuse:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Installed my 75 amp Relay:
Click the image to open in full size.
Grounded the relay:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Now that that's all installed, time to rip out the old stuff. Pulled out the mechanical fan/clutch/shroud and overflow bottle. Reinstalled the 4 water pump bolts back
into the pulley.
Like every other write up, most talked about using weather stripping. I went the same route. 3/8 x 1/2 roll of weather stripping. I'm going to redo
mine. I think that I can do something better. But this will get me by for right now. The bottom of the fan fit's nicely into the bottom (factory) shroud
clips. But leaves you scratching your head for securing the top. Some write up's had you flip the fan upside down, and trim this piece off and
grind here. I didn't want to do that. So I mounted it the way it was stock. Went to the parts store and got some radiator pull through zip ties for the top
install. Talk about a pain in the ***. I would strongly recommend that you pull your radiator support arms (that hold the radiator in place) off so you can
lean the radiator and fan assembly forward so you can tighten up the retainers. So I installed the fan:
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
The picture above also show's where I mounted my controller. Figured I'd keep it there, that way I could adjust it if need be. Didn't really
have any other place to put it. All in all it worked out pretty good.

Fan installed:
Click the image to open in full size.

For the overflow bottle, I still need to work on that. But for the time being I have two of the radiator pull through ties holding it on to the radiator. Hopefully
I'll make something out of sheet metal that will support it on the bottom.

The controller install was pretty self explanatory, I chose to only use the high speed side on the taurus fan. Flow's just fine and keep's my car @ 190 degree's with the
a/c on max and it's 105 outside. Pay attention to color wire's and look really hard at the factory wiring and where you going to tap into. I ended up wiring the fan the wrong
way and it was blowing air into the radiator instead of pulling. I missed the iddy biddy red strip on the wire. I tried to shrink wrap all my connections, some of them I just didn't
have the right size, so I made due with what I had. One note, as far as how to wire up the controller's 12v constant hot, and 12v "KEY ON" I didn't want my fan to run after I have
shut the car off. Things happen and mechanical/electrical parts can crap out. So I wired my controller's 12v constant hot and 12v "KEY ON" hot together to a 12v "KEY ON" source.
Which ended up being the PURGE SOLENOID connector. Both wire's are black so your going to have to figure out which wire is hot and which is ground.

Picture of purge solenoid (borrowed from another forum) which is located on the passenger side below the airbox, and inboard of the frame rail. you can't miss it.
Click the image to open in full size.

The rest is a piece of cake. hope this helps, like I said there are SOOOOOO many write up's out there, and it can get kinda overwhelming on which one to do.
Any questions/suggestions lemme know. This is a rough install. I want to dress the wiring up better, seal the shroud on the radiator better....so by no means is
this completely done, but then again when is our mustang projects EVER done! ;D
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:22 AM   #43
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Little update

Thanks to some good buddies, (ProjectResto+SSPwanbe) they picked up a 70 mm 93 Cobra MAF for me. Best part was it was only 15$!

I'm using my buds pics, same housing, so you get the idea. Compared to the stock one visually. My god...what a choke point.

Click the image to open in full size.
Here's a pic of the original:
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Throttle response improvement was really prominent. Not bad if you ask me.
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:35 PM   #44
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Hey Nice pics Gonna add a lot of pics to my build thread over the 4th weekend.
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:36 PM   #45
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i dont think a 93 cobra maf is a good idea on your car. cobra mafs only work with cobra computers. you want a bigger factory maf buy a used sn95 maf. this is what have have heard.
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:00 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g3mustang View Post
i dont think a 93 cobra maf is a good idea on your car. cobra mafs only work with cobra computers. you want a bigger factory maf buy a used sn95 maf. this is what have have heard.
Actually I took the 19lb stock metering element off my stock MAF, and installed it on the 93 cobra housing. So I'm not going to have any problems
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Old 06-29-2011, 02:08 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oatburner99 View Post
Actually I took the 19lb stock metering element off my stock MAF, and installed it on the 93 cobra housing. So I'm not going to have any problems
yes, actually you are.

It is clear that you have no idea how the actual air metering is done in these cars. It would be wise of you to take the cobra housing off, put the stock electronics back in it, and find an SN-95 maf.

93 Cobra MAF's will make your car run VERY rich at high RPM.

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Old 06-29-2011, 03:16 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdderMk2 View Post
yes, actually you are.

It is clear that you have no idea how the actual air metering is done in these cars. It would be wise of you to take the cobra housing off, put the stock electronics back in it, and find an SN-95 maf.

93 Cobra MAF's will make your car run VERY rich at high RPM.
And why is that? Why don't you explain it instead of just saying what it will do.....
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Old 06-29-2011, 05:55 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdderMk2 View Post
yes, actually you are.

It is clear that you have no idea how the actual air metering is done in these cars. It would be wise of you to take the cobra housing off, put the stock electronics back in it, and find an SN-95 maf.

93 Cobra MAF's will make your car run VERY rich at high RPM.
can I get more of an answer than that?

How is it going to run rich at high RPM? If I have the stock 19lb maf meter installed in the 70mm housing. The meter tube is telling the computer how much air is coming in to the engine, and from there the computer tells how much fuel to add. So again...PLEASE explain what your talking about? The meter tubes are pretty damn close in size, I'll have to get a micrometer out to actually measure it.

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Old 06-29-2011, 06:10 PM   #50
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I have googled somethings about it but I have yet to see actual proof of it other than word of mouth and people explaining it. No dyno sheets with a/f ratios, no comparisons......

If there is I didn't see it but either way, I have seen them ran plenty with no issues and I will also run mine when it is complete.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:20 PM   #51
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Quote:
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This subject is a little confusing so my response may seem a little long winded.

Ford NEVER calibrated any MAF meter to an injector size. ALL of the Ford MAF calibrations were done within the ECU, in a Function called the MAF Transfer. The MAF Transfer tells the computer how much airflow correlates to the voltage being sent by the MAF meter.
There is a separate setting in the Ford ECU for injector size.

The aftermarket MAF meters use some trickeryto get the car to run 'right'. Since a MAF meter cannot change the MAF Transfer (the setting within the ECU), the aftermarket MAF companies 'recalibrate' or 'rescale' the output of their meter, based on intended use (ECU and injector size).
Pretty much cut and dry right there. Just like I said. The computer is going to monitor how much airflow is coming in. If it's a 19lb meter in a cobra housing, the meter is just going to pick up more airflow and add fuel accordingly.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:35 PM   #52
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I have been running my Cobra 70mm housing with stock MAF sensor for little over 3 months now with no issue. There has been no problem at WOT, nor at 135mph on the highway. I'm not saying anyone is wrong, but if it is going to ruin my ECU or motor then I will correct it. Now what I want to know is, what is the difference between the Cobra 70mm housing and the SN95 housing. Sorry Eric about your build thread being turned into Q&A.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:41 PM   #53
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From what I've read the maf transfer for the cobra 70mm housing is different than the 55mm stock fox housing. anyone wanna chime in on this?
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Old 06-29-2011, 11:08 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projectresto83 View Post
I have googled somethings about it but I have yet to see actual proof of it other than word of mouth and people explaining it. No dyno sheets with a/f ratios, no comparisons......

If there is I didn't see it but either way, I have seen them ran plenty with no issues and I will also run mine when it is complete.
Seriously? Do you know how many times I have posted these friggin charts?


Is this enough proof for you?

Click the image to open in full size.

Also, Oatburner, you took what Jason said COMPLETELY out of context. All the MAF does it report a voltage. If the ECM reads a voltage it interprets it into a certain airflow. If the voltage rage of the sensor does not match that of the transfer function in the ECM, it will NOT fuel correctly! As seen in the picture above, your car will begin to run more and more rich from 1v MAFv and up.

So yea, sure great, the car will run ok at low RPM, low load. But you will see an actual difference between a Cobra 70mm and the SN-95 70mm at the track. The SN-95 meter will result in faster times. (and better fuel mileage)

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Old 06-30-2011, 05:24 AM   #55
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No adder I don't. I never had a reason to look for it......

Ok, but what is the difference between using the SN housing and the Cobra housing? Is that with using the SN sensor as well? I am still believing that all the tests with the Cobra MAF is with the cobra sensor as well, not the regular fox. I haven't seen any test state that they switched before the test.
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:09 AM   #56
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AddrMk2 thank you for posting that. Question. Is that chart with the Cobra metering sensor?Or with the stock 5.0 metering sensor? because obviously there is going to be a difference between a 93 cobra maf transfer and a stock 5.0 maf transfer. But does this chart reflect a cobra maf housing and a stock 5.0 metering sensor? Thank you again though for posting that up. I searched last night and tried reading all that I could...didn't find these screen shots. So thanks.
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Old 06-30-2011, 07:09 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oatburner99 View Post
AddrMk2 thank you for posting that. Question. Is that chart with the Cobra metering sensor?Or with the stock 5.0 metering sensor? because obviously there is going to be a difference between a 93 cobra maf transfer and a stock 5.0 maf transfer. But does this chart reflect a cobra maf housing and a stock 5.0 metering sensor? Thank you again though for posting that up. I searched last night and tried reading all that I could...didn't find these screen shots. So thanks.
I do not have a flow chart for the stock 5.0 sensor in the cobra housing... But it is something that I would like to see.

Those flow tables are for the matching housing and sensor combos.
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:47 AM   #58
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Going to a dyno day here in the next few weeks. So we'll see how it does. I honestly believe there isn't going to be a problem with it. The computer in our car's are pretty adaptive, and can compensate to an extent. Shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:42 AM   #59
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Going to a dyno day here in the next few weeks. So we'll see how it does. I honestly believe there isn't going to be a problem with it. The computer in our car's are pretty adaptive, and can compensate to an extent. Shouldn't be an issue.
they are not as adaptive as you think, + or - , 11to12% according to the mapping stategies I have read is all they will compensate for in comparrison with some obd 2 vehicles that have anywhere from 25-45% adaptive strategy
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:05 PM   #60
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It will be just fine. Hopefully everything goes well and I can make it out there as well.
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:05 PM
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