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Project Rustang Resto/Facelift

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Old 11-14-2011, 12:30 AM
  #41  
5.0kid
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Originally Posted by projectresto83
Sounds about right......

I have actually wondered what the weight difference is between a tubed front end (strut tower forward) vs stock.... I know that also kinda depends on how much tubing, what kind and what not but still.....I will find out once I do it
lot of discussion on yellowbullet about this. comes out to be a loss most of the time because of all the bars you need to put back in for support. lot of guys do it for ease of access to things and also to get more room for things in the engine bay.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:46 AM
  #42  
302army187
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Thanks for the weight on the bumper.

When I do mine, im going to try and cut some other stuff off, and get some more weight out. would be nice If I could get atleast 25-30lb's out.

I hate how the stock radiator in my car hangs 1/2 inch or so into the engine bay, so I will probably cut a little cunk out of the radiator support, and the bottom support part, so that I can tuck the radiator under there. I'm only talking 1/8th inch or so. Maybe Its just OCD or something, but every time I'm looking in the engine bay, that damn radiator bugs the hell out of me.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:44 AM
  #43  
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i would suggest agianst it. Ford placed it there because of the aero effect from the air dam, if you move it forward your going to be eliminating the amount of air being forced in front of the radiator at speed
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:40 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 5.0kid
i would suggest agianst it. Ford placed it there because of the aero effect from the air dam, if you move it forward your going to be eliminating the amount of air being forced in front of the radiator at speed
hrm. Good point, did not think of that.
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:24 PM
  #45  
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maybe lean the top under the core support that way it looks hidden from the top but your not taking away from the cooling effect of the radiator position
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:17 PM
  #46  
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Easily fixed though with a small piece of sheet metal....
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:40 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 5.0kid
Do it now while its out or you will be Mfing your self when you go to do it in the future and have to tear it all out. plus you will want to lay down carpet that will be cut for the cage once and the stuff that is factory doesnt really work to well aka looks like crap. 11.50 and faster you need a roll bar which is basically a 6pt though nhra will let a 5 point go which is a 6 point with no passenger door bar. I would strongly think abou your total goals with the car if you plan on adding power that can get you into the 9's go with a 10 pt because the 6 point roll bar is only good to 10.0 after that you need the halo up top and the dash bars.
I'm gonna go for it then. Haven't had it on a track yet, it's been a work in progress for a really long time. I'm sure the car is capable of mid to high tens once I get the suspension like it needs to be to hook up. I've been really thinking about where I want to take the car, and after I'm done with this body work and finish the suspension I will close the book on it. The setup is reliable for daily driving and it's FAST, which is what I want. Once I get finished with it I want to move into a modular project. A 96-98 Cobra to be more specific. I've always loved the SN body style, it's what I grew up with as a kid.

As far as the carpet, I just bought this new black carpet a few years back so I'm going to do my best to make it look good after installing the roll cage.
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:44 PM
  #48  
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Rocker panels are here!

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Old 11-23-2011, 09:56 PM
  #49  
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Gonna start cutting early Friday morning! Brought it to the shop tonight. The blue notch is my brothers. He started tearing it apart a couple days ago. Gonna be a turbo 5.0 build.





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Old 11-24-2011, 07:56 AM
  #50  
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Looks like it's coming along good so far.

I have lots of rust to fix on my car as well. Not looking forward to that at all.
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