rangerdriver

I recently bought a 1987 T Top GT this summer. Body is decent shape, some rust, but nothing serious.
It has a carb 302, bbk shorty headers, offroad x pipe, ported, polished, cammed, UD pulley, no p/s or a/c, msd ignition, holley carb, electric fan, 3.73 L/S rear end. Tube K Member just installed, weld on sub frames, rear lower control arms(not sure on make)
Had a stock t5 trans and no idea on the clutch, so far I have only removed the trans and this is why I am posting.
Before I blew up 3rd gear it was making it's power around 3K, couldn't keep any traction in 1-3rd. I have no HP numbers besides my butt dyno, and the fact I blew a rebuilt T5.
I'm looking at a tko600, I'm confused on this wide vs close ratio. What OD is best? Looking for performance, not fuel economy. I've been searching can't find what is best for down at the drag strip performance.
It will be driven on the street, but nothing more than local driving.

lxman1

The close ratio will keep the rpm's from dropping as much between the gears. That's what I would go with since you have 3.73's.

projectresto83

Don't let your butt dyno go to your head thinking you have alot of HP...maybe 230 if your lucky with those stock heads. Breaking a T5 doesn't mean anything special, just means it gets beat on hard.

From the looks of whoever had the car before you was an idiot and didn't know how to work on a car since he was so quick to remove the EFI for a carb setup.. The reason why I blame him is because the MAP sensor is still on the firewall.....

Is there a reason why have the vac port on the dizzy blocked off?
What cam do you have in the motor?

rangerdriver

Umm, should there be a vac line to it?
No idea on the cam.

projectresto83

Ummm yea, that is why its called a vacuum advance distributor. The carb should have a vac port on it for the advance but if not a port on the intake itself will do. It is what allows the timing to be advanced while driving.....you will feel a power difference just from putting the line on it.

rangerdriver

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

There's third gear. I found out the trans has this ratio 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.68

What I'm trying to figure out now is the imbalance of the flywheel. I pulled it, there's some holes drilled in it and a bunch of numbers. Any help would be appreciated!

projectresto83

Thats not bad.......

Stock T5 gear ratio...we could have told you that...

so long as your block hasn't been machined to accept a 1 piece rear main.....1 piece rear main=50oz, 2 piece=28oz...now don't swear by that exactly because there are some mixes here and there BUT that is a decent rule of thumb....

nitrous_bob

other than first all the gearing options are minimal (hundreths diff on 2nd and 3rd only)

ALL WC t5's are 3.35 1st, except the cobra, aka "z" trans is a 2.95, which is a ok choice for us 4.10 guys IF they drive a lot

but 3.35 is a fantastic performance gear. i'd stay with it

nitrous_bob

whats the tag ID ? thats not a '87 trans...looks like a '90 trans

the tag on one of the 4 case bolts will have a 1352-XXX number

the "XXX" is everything

nitrous_bob

and some more FYI....you can get almost $50 for the case, $75 for the input, and $75 for the output

the cluster is smoked....thats worth an ez $100

ebay what you got towards the new trans