'97 5.0 into '93 efi 2.3
#1
'97 5.0 into '93 efi 2.3
I'm new to the whole 5.0 thing guys. I was gonna go with the 2.3 Turbo set-up but I've decided to go V8 because what I've heard and seen with my '66 Satellite is the V8's bang for the buck is a lot better haha. I got a junk yard 5.0 out of a '97 Exploder... Explorer that is 130k Auto. I'm pulling the motor and entire wiring harness. But it has coil packs :/ I'm not too sure about the newer 5.0's. I have a chance to wire up the car on the same coil pack system, but i don't know if i should. Is there any advantage? Or should i convert it back to a distributor? I'm not putting a whole lot of money into the motor right now. Porting, thats about the extent of it. The rest of my money has to go into the suspension, brakes, tranny, and rear end.
Anyways, my question here is, is it a smart idea to go through with this motor? I'm only dropping $100 for it with the harness. It runs, i heard it run yesterday. Am i getting into a bunch of bad decisions by trying to put this particular motor into my '93? And I'm 100% keeping it injected. It's still gonna be my DD.
Any and all responses are appreciated. Thanks guys.
Anyways, my question here is, is it a smart idea to go through with this motor? I'm only dropping $100 for it with the harness. It runs, i heard it run yesterday. Am i getting into a bunch of bad decisions by trying to put this particular motor into my '93? And I'm 100% keeping it injected. It's still gonna be my DD.
Any and all responses are appreciated. Thanks guys.
#2
First read this.....
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...bers-read.html
Before you purchase the motor remove the wiring, coil pack, the front accessories, water pump, headers, and the big chunk of aluminum that makes the 90* bend toward the front. Keep the throttle body! The oil pan will have to be changed but leave it for the time being to keep the bottom end sealed up.
Again, DO NOT buy the wiring harness. There is no point. Go find yourself a 92/93 Mustang EFI harness...that includes 3 harnesses total. (main harness that connects to the computer, engine harness that plugs into the main at the salt and pepper shakers, and the o2 harness that plugs into the main harness) Do not try to use the coil pack setup. Purchase a STOCK distributor and coil, FRPP plug wires, fox body oil pan, GT40P (if it has the P heads....I forget when they started them) specific headers, mustang EFI harness, a9l (standard trans) or a A9P/A9M (auto) and get a different cam. Find a harness out of standard car if you want to run a standard and an auto car if you want to run an auto just to save the wiring hassle.....
This might help some for the wiring and sensors....its my write up for a carb to EFI swap but it works the same as starting from scratch...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...-write-up.html
As for the 4 banger to v8 swap....
To make it run and drivable you do not need to change the brakes, suspension, or rear end BUT eventually you will want to upgrade to at least stock 5.0 stuff and depending on your future intentions you can save yourself the hassle and go to straight upgrades such as rear disc, 5 lug, etc. There are MANY swap thread out there so just use the search button or google.....
Now, as for the motor...you heard it run, it doesn't have a butt load of miles BUT that doesn't mean much. When you get the motor remove the intake and look at the oil galley. That can tell you alot on how the maintenance was done.... If it were me I would at least go ahead and tear it down and put a new timing chain, oil pump, gaskets, and main/rod bearings in it.
As for porting the heads.....a decent amount of work can be done to them and there are some decent write ups out there on the GT40's heads.
Then if you run into any issues you can contact Mjr...he lives in Maryland so if your close enough and the price is right I'm sure he can help you out for any issues you might have...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...bers-read.html
Before you purchase the motor remove the wiring, coil pack, the front accessories, water pump, headers, and the big chunk of aluminum that makes the 90* bend toward the front. Keep the throttle body! The oil pan will have to be changed but leave it for the time being to keep the bottom end sealed up.
Again, DO NOT buy the wiring harness. There is no point. Go find yourself a 92/93 Mustang EFI harness...that includes 3 harnesses total. (main harness that connects to the computer, engine harness that plugs into the main at the salt and pepper shakers, and the o2 harness that plugs into the main harness) Do not try to use the coil pack setup. Purchase a STOCK distributor and coil, FRPP plug wires, fox body oil pan, GT40P (if it has the P heads....I forget when they started them) specific headers, mustang EFI harness, a9l (standard trans) or a A9P/A9M (auto) and get a different cam. Find a harness out of standard car if you want to run a standard and an auto car if you want to run an auto just to save the wiring hassle.....
This might help some for the wiring and sensors....its my write up for a carb to EFI swap but it works the same as starting from scratch...
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...-write-up.html
As for the 4 banger to v8 swap....
To make it run and drivable you do not need to change the brakes, suspension, or rear end BUT eventually you will want to upgrade to at least stock 5.0 stuff and depending on your future intentions you can save yourself the hassle and go to straight upgrades such as rear disc, 5 lug, etc. There are MANY swap thread out there so just use the search button or google.....
Now, as for the motor...you heard it run, it doesn't have a butt load of miles BUT that doesn't mean much. When you get the motor remove the intake and look at the oil galley. That can tell you alot on how the maintenance was done.... If it were me I would at least go ahead and tear it down and put a new timing chain, oil pump, gaskets, and main/rod bearings in it.
As for porting the heads.....a decent amount of work can be done to them and there are some decent write ups out there on the GT40's heads.
Then if you run into any issues you can contact Mjr...he lives in Maryland so if your close enough and the price is right I'm sure he can help you out for any issues you might have...
#3
Thanks, but the guy sold the motor out from under me... Back to looking... But I liike the Carb to EFI write-up, good info! I'll be posting again soon if I can't find the answer to my numerous questions thanks
#5
Do you happen to know anything about the Edlebrock EFI systems? A guy i do side work for told me that it would make my wiring a lot easier being that it has everything including the manifold. I don't wanna blow near 5k for it, and it be junk...
#6
I know that it is an overpriced product that you do not need. It is a good product but not for you intent and purpose. I could buy the cars and everything you are trying to do for less than 5k and run better....
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