302 HARD TO START IN THE MORNING
#1
302 HARD TO START IN THE MORNING
I need a surefire list of improvements to get this start to start "on the money". Has a Elderbrock carberator that was installed/adjusted by mechanic. The car had a Holley carb and had the same problem starting so I highly doubt it's the carb. The car is at an auto shop and the electrical seems to be good. What I need is a laundry list. I have started one, but need specifics and need to know which models and what should be deleted. Per the mechanics instructions I ordered an electrical fuel pump (had mechanical) "Summit". He also said eventually should get a MSD distributor, just not sure which i should get. They range from $200 - $359.99. Thanks for all the help guys.
1) "summit" 14 psi, 105 gph - electric fuel pump -price $97.99 (ON ORDER)
2) MSD Distribitor Model 8352 -price - $359.99
3) MSD Ignition Control Module - Multi Spark - MSD 6A - $179.95
4) Optima Battery with 800+ cold crank amps $190
These 302 carberated models are notorious for having problems starting after sitting, but I've spoke to people who were able to make the corrections. Anything else you guys feel will help this car to start up FAST?
1) "summit" 14 psi, 105 gph - electric fuel pump -price $97.99 (ON ORDER)
2) MSD Distribitor Model 8352 -price - $359.99
3) MSD Ignition Control Module - Multi Spark - MSD 6A - $179.95
4) Optima Battery with 800+ cold crank amps $190
These 302 carberated models are notorious for having problems starting after sitting, but I've spoke to people who were able to make the corrections. Anything else you guys feel will help this car to start up FAST?
#2
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what ignition setup are you running now? points?
if you are running points i would just swap over to Pertronix Ignitor II and the flame thrower II coil.
1.you dont need a whole new distributor
2. if the shop isnt specialized in old cars they DO NOT know how to tune a carb.
3. tune the carb yourself, there are alot of guides on the web
4. have you checked your timing?
5. if it is a carb issue im betting its your fast idle and choke not working properly.
6. the fast idle keeps the car at ~1500 rpm until the engine warms up enough or you hit the gas. once its warm a simple tap drops the RPM to the desired ~1k rpm.
7. the choke should be almost fully closed when you take off the filter in the morning, if it isnt then its not setup right.
8. no need for the battery, i live in MN and drove my 67 all of last winter and i had to be at school by 7:30 am so many cold starts with a couple weeks worth of of double digit negatives. My run of the mill walmart battery worked everytime.
9. if its frequently cold where you live i might suggest a block heater which you keep plugged in when not using the car, it keeps the engine oil/coolant warm so that its easier to start and drive when cold, your engine will also thank you for this.
i have started and drove my 67 in -20F weather before, it took a bit to warm up but it ran fine, and i have a stock 2bbl carburetor.
if you are running points i would just swap over to Pertronix Ignitor II and the flame thrower II coil.
1.you dont need a whole new distributor
2. if the shop isnt specialized in old cars they DO NOT know how to tune a carb.
3. tune the carb yourself, there are alot of guides on the web
4. have you checked your timing?
5. if it is a carb issue im betting its your fast idle and choke not working properly.
6. the fast idle keeps the car at ~1500 rpm until the engine warms up enough or you hit the gas. once its warm a simple tap drops the RPM to the desired ~1k rpm.
7. the choke should be almost fully closed when you take off the filter in the morning, if it isnt then its not setup right.
8. no need for the battery, i live in MN and drove my 67 all of last winter and i had to be at school by 7:30 am so many cold starts with a couple weeks worth of of double digit negatives. My run of the mill walmart battery worked everytime.
9. if its frequently cold where you live i might suggest a block heater which you keep plugged in when not using the car, it keeps the engine oil/coolant warm so that its easier to start and drive when cold, your engine will also thank you for this.
i have started and drove my 67 in -20F weather before, it took a bit to warm up but it ran fine, and i have a stock 2bbl carburetor.
Last edited by MustangFTW; 12-18-2011 at 06:17 PM.
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