5.0L General DiscussionThis section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.
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my dad has a service truck with his job. so i have an air compressor and all tools with me. back when i built my s10 with the 327, we did a 15-20min. starter swap in the parking lot, so the truck is handy.
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so ultimately what is the difference between DR's and slicks? they are both designed for traction with no wheel spin one is designed for street use the other designed for track use. if both are supposed to hook when whats the difference?
there seem to be a few people telling me to go drag radials in stead of slicks but none of them can explain why other than i can use them on the road, which i care nothing about. so could someone explain how much HP you have to have to run slicks and what is the difference in the 2?
If it was me I would run the MT/ETstreet that are NOT the radial. Why I have seen to many heavy stick cars just not work with a drag radial start adding power to it and it gets even worst. I have seen many friends go down that road. get the the non D/R ones in a 26in tall and unhook the front sway bar if you still have one air them to around 15psi. for a start and have at it.
One reason I can think you may slow down with a full slick is lack of power a lower power car seems to like to slip the tire a bit and that helps keep the bog out of it and gives a false running start. Tell you another thing slicks and sticks and stock axles dont work very long seen that also to many times it is not if they brake it is when but the ET street Non D/R will brake a axle also but not as bad as a slick.
Now if it was a auto I would say run the D/R all day. By the way the D/R are not that bad in the rain I have been caught out a few times really not bad at all. now the ET Street non D/R are awful I have been stuck on a large hill in a big downpour I could not go up the hill and yes I was on the street
I personally prefer the et street slicks for track use. Main reason being I've has my drivetrain parts last longer since the side wall takes the shock out the launch. I can get way more aggressive on the launch and not have to slip the clutch none. I've been on my bolt on set up on 253whpthe with the stock 3.08 gears axles and posi on a 27x11.5 hoosier qtp launching off the rev limiter even with bogging some I still ran over a tenth faster and 1mph fast in th1/8th mile.
On drag railas nittos's and the mickey Thomson's I have had bad clutch slipping, bent an axle, and completly exploded my alburn posi unit at the drag strip. Now I will say I'd rather run a drag radial on the street bc for me they seem to hook better and if you get caught in the rain you can still get where you need to go.
Trick flow heads 1.72 rockers, BBK SSI Intake and full bolt on's with stock cam 291.74whp 328.08wtq
1.64 60' firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com
Race weight 3095
Better times coming soon!
(Old set up) Bolt on's 253whp 300wtq
Best 1/4 1.83 60' firstname.lastname@example.org
Best 1/8 1.71 60' email@example.com
Best 60' 1.70
Race weight 3265
car hooked pretty good launch at about 3k and ride the clutch out and chirp in second. i was kinda disappointing i thought maybe mid to low 14's but oh well. so he is the question, i have $200 so do what ever i want with my car what should the next thing be to help get better a ET? i have pullies, full exhaust, and 3.73 gears. any suggestions?
Thinking outside the box here...
Use the $200 to go to the track a few more times (four more test n tune nights, $200 will cover entry fee and fuel costs)
When you get some more practice launching that car, it'll run 1.9X 60-foot times which will put you in the 13.9s with no other mods to the car.
Then when you get comfortable at that level, tire & suspension will drop the ET even more. (I can help you with that part)
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