5.0L General DiscussionThis section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 5.0L Mustangs.
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
my dad has a service truck with his job. so i have an air compressor and all tools with me. back when i built my s10 with the 327, we did a 15-20min. starter swap in the parking lot, so the truck is handy.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
so ultimately what is the difference between DR's and slicks? they are both designed for traction with no wheel spin one is designed for street use the other designed for track use. if both are supposed to hook when whats the difference?
there seem to be a few people telling me to go drag radials in stead of slicks but none of them can explain why other than i can use them on the road, which i care nothing about. so could someone explain how much HP you have to have to run slicks and what is the difference in the 2?
If it was me I would run the MT/ETstreet that are NOT the radial. Why I have seen to many heavy stick cars just not work with a drag radial start adding power to it and it gets even worst. I have seen many friends go down that road. get the the non D/R ones in a 26in tall and unhook the front sway bar if you still have one air them to around 15psi. for a start and have at it.
One reason I can think you may slow down with a full slick is lack of power a lower power car seems to like to slip the tire a bit and that helps keep the bog out of it and gives a false running start. Tell you another thing slicks and sticks and stock axles dont work very long seen that also to many times it is not if they brake it is when but the ET street Non D/R will brake a axle also but not as bad as a slick.
Now if it was a auto I would say run the D/R all day. By the way the D/R are not that bad in the rain I have been caught out a few times really not bad at all. now the ET Street non D/R are awful I have been stuck on a large hill in a big downpour I could not go up the hill and yes I was on the street
I personally prefer the et street slicks for track use. Main reason being I've has my drivetrain parts last longer since the side wall takes the shock out the launch. I can get way more aggressive on the launch and not have to slip the clutch none. I've been on my bolt on set up on 253whpthe with the stock 3.08 gears axles and posi on a 27x11.5 hoosier qtp launching off the rev limiter even with bogging some I still ran over a tenth faster and 1mph fast in th1/8th mile.
On drag railas nittos's and the mickey Thomson's I have had bad clutch slipping, bent an axle, and completly exploded my alburn posi unit at the drag strip. Now I will say I'd rather run a drag radial on the street bc for me they seem to hook better and if you get caught in the rain you can still get where you need to go.
Trick flow heads 1.72 rockers, BBK SSI Intake and full bolt on's with stock cam 291.74whp 328.08wtq
1.64 60' firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com
Race weight 3095
Better times coming soon!
(Old set up) Bolt on's 253whp 300wtq
Best 1/4 1.83 60' firstname.lastname@example.org
Best 1/8 1.71 60' email@example.com
Best 60' 1.70
Race weight 3265
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor