EGR delete/Throttle body
#1
EGR delete/Throttle body
Hey guys I have sort of a two part question:
1. I want to get rid of the EGR valve, but is all I have to do is just install a block plate? Anything else?
2. At the same time I was thinking of upgrading my throttle body and putting in a throttle body spacer either 65mm or 70mm. My car is completely stock except for I have a cold air intake, full exhaust (long tube headers, off road H-pipe, and Flow masters Cat-backs), and I deleted the smog pump. If I were to do this, do I need to upgrade the MAF (or anything else for that matter) or tune it?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
1. I want to get rid of the EGR valve, but is all I have to do is just install a block plate? Anything else?
2. At the same time I was thinking of upgrading my throttle body and putting in a throttle body spacer either 65mm or 70mm. My car is completely stock except for I have a cold air intake, full exhaust (long tube headers, off road H-pipe, and Flow masters Cat-backs), and I deleted the smog pump. If I were to do this, do I need to upgrade the MAF (or anything else for that matter) or tune it?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
#2
I have to ask why do you want to do this? It helps cool the composition chamber, helps lower the octane requirement for the motor, and also helps with emissions.
#3
I'm having a hesitation problem that is driving me nuts. If I let off the clutch in 1st gear and let it idle it will jerk. If I give it a slow acceleration around 1800 RPMs it will jerk a little. However, it does not do this all the time, and once it's heated up it gets better. I've swapped the TPS sensor, MAF, IAC, ran Seafoam in the vaccume lines, Lucus in the gas,and tapped the EGR with a hammer. Every time I swap a part out it is fixed for about a week. Then I took the battery terminals out and it came back with a vengeance. If you put the petal to the metal for a few launches it seems to help it. It's slowly got better. Maybe it's the EGR valve position sensor? EGR valve clogged? I'm not sure. I was going to delete the EGR to see if it helped at all. I'm not finding any vacuum leaks, but then again I have not ran a smoke test on it.
#4
I'm having a hesitation problem that is driving me nuts. If I let off the clutch in 1st gear and let it idle it will jerk. If I give it a slow acceleration around 1800 RPMs it will jerk a little. However, it does not do this all the time, and once it's heated up it gets better. I've swapped the TPS sensor, MAF, IAC, ran Seafoam in the vaccume lines, Lucus in the gas,and tapped the EGR with a hammer. Every time I swap a part out it is fixed for about a week. Then I took the battery terminals out and it came back with a vengeance. If you put the petal to the metal for a few launches it seems to help it. It's slowly got better. Maybe it's the EGR valve position sensor? EGR valve clogged? I'm not sure. I was going to delete the EGR to see if it helped at all. I'm not finding any vacuum leaks, but then again I have not ran a smoke test on it.
#5
The egr shouldn't have any effect at idle unless it is stuck open. At idle it should be closed . Ive had my egr deleted for a while now and have suffered no ill effects other than the ecm gives a check engine light. The egr has a position sensor that the ecm uses to detect the position of the egr valve. The ecm activates a vacuum control solenoid to send a metered vacuum signal to the egr to open and close it. So when the ecm operates the solenoid it expects to receive feedback from the egr position sensor , when it sees that the egr is not operating it will throw a code.
If possible you should run some tests on the engine coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor .
Make sure you don't have any air leaks after the MAF as this will allow unmetered air into the intake. Clean the egr if possible , and make sure its closed all the way .
If possible you should run some tests on the engine coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor .
Make sure you don't have any air leaks after the MAF as this will allow unmetered air into the intake. Clean the egr if possible , and make sure its closed all the way .
#7
If the EGR was a problem it wouldn’t cause a jerk as you describe. It would cause the motor to stall at idle if it were stuck open. If it were stuck closed, and your problems persist then its not the EGR valve because it being closed is the same as it being deleted.
I think you should try to diagnose the problem properly instead of throwing parts at it (or removing parts in this case). What you describe sounds more like an ignition problem, like bad plugs, wires and/or coil pack(s). Most likely the coil pack.
#8
[QUOTE=petrock;8110083] What you describe sounds more like an ignition problem, like bad plugs, wires and/or coil pack(s). Most likely the coil pack.
A 94 doesn't have coil packs. The coil either is either functional or not.
A 94 doesn't have coil packs. The coil either is either functional or not.
#9
Coil packs didn't come until later, and a your car doesn't have any. You have a coil and if you're having ignition issue, a common thing to go bad on these cars is the ICM(Ignition control module), on 87-93 it mounts on the distributor, on 94-95 it mounts somewhere else, not completely sure on where because I haven't worked on one in years.
#10
Well this weekend I'm swapping out the EGR position sensor, cleaning the EGR, swapping my spark plug wires (spark plugs are brand new), changing out the ignition module (MSD), fuel filter, and crossing my fingers. Also, isn't the ICM/TFI module will either work or it won't? I have not had any stalling or start up problems.