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Old 05-07-2013, 06:20 PM   #21
mtflyboy25
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Before you go throwing more power at this this setup, which will only disappoint you even more, throw a set of DRs or slicks and put it on the dyno to see what it puts down as it may need a tune. These 2 things might be all you need.
I am taking it to Chuck Hawks performance here in Tucson, AZ for a checkup on all systems. I just replaced the oil and it looked great!

No need for slicks or DRs since I was nowhere near losing traction...They would help me powerbrake launch at a higher RPM but so will a stall....
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:40 PM   #22
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I am taking it to Chuck Hawks performance here in Tucson, AZ for a checkup on all systems. I just replaced the oil and it looked great!

No need for slicks or DRs since I was nowhere near losing traction...They would help me powerbrake launch at a higher RPM but so will a stall....
Tell me again how good your traction is with a 2.4x 60ft time? Lmao!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #23
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Tell me again how good your traction is with a 2.4x 60ft time? Lmao!
It didnt spin at all..... Not even a little, that happens with a 2600 stall and 3.27 gears and not much power... Seriously slicks or DR would not help me at all.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:59 PM   #24
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Thought about it for a second, and if I had some good slicks or DRs you are right, that would let me launch at a higher RPM.... just like a new stall would...
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:17 AM   #25
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The only vehicle that doesnt run faster on a properly warmed DR/slick is......none!
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:46 AM   #26
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mtflyboy25-------Check your PM's..........
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:33 AM   #27
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mtflyboy25-------Check your PM's..........
Got it, and that is a first I have been warned of that man.. Everyone else seems to think they do good work.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:36 AM   #28
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The only vehicle that doesnt run faster on a properly warmed DR/slick is......none!
True, but it would rele only help a small bit on mine.. Not enough power to break traction at this point...
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:09 AM   #29
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True, but it would rele only help a small bit on mine.. Not enough power to break traction at this point...
Dude, you can't say you're hooking fine if you got a 2.4 60ft time. I can cut a 2.1 or 2.0 in my fwd v6 automatic Altima and I'm still spinning, I can gain 3-5 tents on that car with DRs. Every tenth in 60ft time you drop, you drop about 2 tenths 1/4 mile time.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:46 AM   #30
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Dude, you can't say you're hooking fine if you got a 2.4 60ft time. I can cut a 2.1 or 2.0 in my fwd v6 automatic Altima and I'm still spinning, I can gain 3-5 tents on that car with DRs. Every tenth in 60ft time you drop, you drop about 2 tenths 1/4 mile time.
Okay so you are saying it is impossible to get a 2.4 60 ft and not spin? You either A dont drag race much at all, or B are just not very smart.

I have less then 250 whp + a Density altitude of 4500 ft above sea level which lowers power even more... put through an AOD automatic transmission with a 2600 rpm stall... My power doesnt hit hard til 3500 rpms...The car weighs 3500 lbs with me in it... and my 3.27 rear end gearing..

So decently heavy, low power, bad air, low stall, and short rear gearing, all means basically 0 power/torque on launch... Get it?

The car does not spin AT ALL on the strip.. I made 17 runs and I didnt spin one bit.. There just isnt enough torque getting to the tires to break traction... I would show you a video of it, but I forgot to put the memory card in my GoPro. So now think about what you are saying...

Would some drag radials help? Yes. Why though? They would help because the sticky tires would let me hit maybe 3000 rpm on launch... That is more than I can now because with my foot on the brake and the gas at 2600 rpms stitting still I start to do a burn out... As soon as I let off the brake and go the spinning stops and the car bogs.... Get it now?
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:46 AM
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