brennan1994

I agree on the nitrous. $600 for a kit and however much bottle refills are. Plus nitrous isn't always there like a cam would be...

That's almost exactly what I was thinking for this winter. New fluids in the transmission and rear axle, check over all of my bearings, compression test to check the engine over. and just a general inspection of the motor. and then if everything seemed good and nothing major was wrong, do a new cam and valvetrain. maybe it would be easier to just pull the motor out...

I've got aftermarket control arms and sub frame connectors so I'm good there. Just some drag radials and a driveshaft loop.

do you have any good camshaft recommendations? ive been thinking the steeda #19 or comp cams recommended their xe270hr.

also what do you mean by buzzing 1st? just running it a little higher before shifting?

tinman

My thinking is to use real slicks instead of any radials, that and 4.10's may just get that 60' time down by 2 tenths......

wydopnthrtl

On the cam.. I'd ask a pro. I'd spend the extra 100-150bux and have a real expert get you the most out of what your using. Would make for a more driveable car and probably provide nearly the same top end.

I was meaning to remove the engine and freshen it up. With all that cold weather up there... I'd think you'd have plenty of time. ;-)

Buzz... well an educated answer gets me into a discussion I don't want to have on a public forum. Most people don't understand basics and are happily stuck in thier sheeple based delusions of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower.
Ok just know I'm not going to argue this any further...but here is truth on the matter. There is no such thing as "horespower". There is only torque produced and friction that robs it.
For a T5 5.0L running 13s I'd assume 22% frictional for 1-2 25% for 3rd and 30% for 4th. (air resistance builds with speed)
To know the best shift points all it takes is a torque curve, some frictional assumptions, and a spread sheet. By buzzing first gear (slightly over revving) what you are doing is losing forward push (in 1st) but gaining more thrust for a longer period of time when in 2nd. If you want to be confused.. look at HP numbers. If you want simplicity (nothing but truth) look only at the TQ curve and the TQ multiplication you get from each gear.

btw, 1000 is tight but I'm also not one to throw currency at something. I love to maximize efficiency. And many of the posters here are correct. Working on that 60ft with skill and slicks would go a long way at ET reduction. It might also show just how weak (or strong) the clutch is. :-)
What if you picked up an extra PT job and got together another 1000? Sure would make part selections easier.

Duncan_GT

^ it is a little more in depth, but that's the basic concept. Horsepower is a function of torque and RPM, nothing more.

brennan1994

Well now I've been thinking about a procharger. Found a used kit (head unit, bracket, 24# injectors, fmu, mass air) for $1400. So I might be able to get it a bit cheaper and install it for $2000 (gauges, tune, etch. All labor done myself)

But now I hear the Borg Warner world class t5 is only rated to 300ft-lbs torque. Which I'm sure I'm past already....

So now the tranny is holding me back... ugh what to do. Boost it and gamble or say screw it....

88 orangepeel notch

If this is a street car that sees the track a couple times a year, and you treat the T5 like, well a T5, you'll be fine, I think mjr has been in the 10's with his, easy on the shifts and they can last awhile.

Duncan_GT

351w and a T56. Now I've answered both your questions lol

brennan1994

If I had the money I would! I'd love a t56 especially because of the extra gear and they hold up to the svt terminator cobras. but they're not cheap

brennan1994

This is what it'll see:

-Street car that would see the track 5-10 times a year.
-Occasional spirited driving on the street and the occasional clutch dump with a good burnout

I don't beat the hell out of it but I do drive it like its a mustang.

-other than that slow smooth shifts that are rpm matched almost every time.

What your saying give me some assurance. Ive heard so many mixed reviews on the t5 and I don't want to put a blower on and blow up the tranny

From what I've read, on a 400 HP sting the tranny is usually the weak point and will go before the bottom end or block on the engine goes

88 orangepeel notch

Oh there's alot of weak links when you start making real power lol, trannys, axles, torque boxes, etc etc. It doesn't end. That's why I'd try to find a reasonable et or powerlevel your happy with and just stick with that. My car is about as fast as it's gonna get, I just drive it now.

Well maybe a 100 shot just to go down in a blaze of glory.