New Guy and 1990 GT build up
#11
The car barely has any door dings, the PO was meticulous about parking it away from the riff raff. When I eventually send it to paint, it shouldn't take too much body work.
#12
Funny a guy I just bought my Edelbrock RPM heads off gave me set of 3.55s with install kit too. mine already has 3.55s ha.. Not sure if you are going that way though.
#13
So bad news.. The first block I sent to the machine shop will need to be bored out to .030-.060 depending on where it will clean.
Was originally going to use forged pistons to be able to spray or supercharge it later without worrying about it, but after thinking about it for a while 300-350hp~ is more than adequate for me and who knows if I will ever get around to doing either of those later. Thinking about just getting a quality set of Hypers for this motor. This one will have the Aderson 412 or tfs 1/2 cam, Edelbrock 6025 2.02 heads, stock crank/rods, tubular gt40 intake. Maybe bump the compression up with the pistons and stay N/A on this one?
What do you guys think?
Other motor will just be honed and stock internals
Was originally going to use forged pistons to be able to spray or supercharge it later without worrying about it, but after thinking about it for a while 300-350hp~ is more than adequate for me and who knows if I will ever get around to doing either of those later. Thinking about just getting a quality set of Hypers for this motor. This one will have the Aderson 412 or tfs 1/2 cam, Edelbrock 6025 2.02 heads, stock crank/rods, tubular gt40 intake. Maybe bump the compression up with the pistons and stay N/A on this one?
What do you guys think?
Other motor will just be honed and stock internals
#14
I like your thinking, 300-350hp is just fine for a steet car. More than enough to get you in trouble and still fairly easy on the bank account. I'm more than happy with my measly 300 at the wheels. And I'm also in favor of NA, just because of the "simple is better" theory. Keep is posted on the progress.
#15
I like your thinking, 300-350hp is just fine for a steet car. More than enough to get you in trouble and still fairly easy on the bank account. I'm more than happy with my measly 300 at the wheels. And I'm also in favor of NA, just because of the "simple is better" theory. Keep is posted on the progress.
Also it seems 450-500hp is limit for stock block so why buy internals to go there without a $1100-$1700 aftermarket block to start with?
Talked to the machine shop and gave them the go ahead on some speed pro H273 Hyper pistons with 4 large valve reliefs (should take care of the 2.02 valve clearance issue- still clay it when I get it home). With the 60cc heads I would think this would put me in mid/low 9s on compression.
Should have the piston/rods, block, and crank back next week for some "fitting" pics but shop is slow so we'll see.
Really need to start narrowing down that cam, then rockers, then pushrods haha...
Last edited by JBeachstang11; 05-09-2014 at 02:17 PM.
#16
Now on topic
I've been gradually looking at the thread, and you got the car at an amazing price! Great find!
Definitely looking forward to your progress on your build. I personally think 300-350 is a great power range for a street driven fox. Keeping it N/A takes all the guess work out for tuning issues, and you have a reliable car that can still put a giant smile on your face no matter the situation!
#17
I constantly see this floating around, and yet I still see people run stock blocks into the 600-700 range, dog the hell out of them on the track, and they still don't give in until 100+ passes of red lining each gear. Stock block application is fine for street/strip as long as your bottom end is good. Once you're running strictly strip (or well above 600hp), get a dart block.
Now on topic
I've been gradually looking at the thread, and you got the car at an amazing price! Great find!
Definitely looking forward to your progress on your build. I personally think 300-350 is a great power range for a street driven fox. Keeping it N/A takes all the guess work out for tuning issues, and you have a reliable car that can still put a giant smile on your face no matter the situation!
Now on topic
I've been gradually looking at the thread, and you got the car at an amazing price! Great find!
Definitely looking forward to your progress on your build. I personally think 300-350 is a great power range for a street driven fox. Keeping it N/A takes all the guess work out for tuning issues, and you have a reliable car that can still put a giant smile on your face no matter the situation!
On the car, thanks man. She's definitely not perfect, some dings and scratches here and there but can't complain for the money. Hopefully that interior gets here this week and my block/crank is ready to bring home and start putting it together.
I think that combo should be a good base, 306 Edel 6025 2.02 heads, GT40 upper, ported lower, 70mm BBKTB, speed pro hypers with valve cuts. Leaning towards that Anderson 412 still.
#18
I'd be real careful about how much volume the intake port has on a 306-308 sized engine as well as my valve size unless you want some low RPM issues.
It's real easy to buy to much cylinder head nowadays.
I would figure out what I was going to use for a cam and sort off build the engine around it.
It's real easy to buy to much cylinder head nowadays.
I would figure out what I was going to use for a cam and sort off build the engine around it.
#19
I'd be real careful about how much volume the intake port has on a 306-308 sized engine as well as my valve size unless you want some low RPM issues.
It's real easy to buy to much cylinder head nowadays.
I would figure out what I was going to use for a cam and sort off build the engine around it.
It's real easy to buy to much cylinder head nowadays.
I would figure out what I was going to use for a cam and sort off build the engine around it.